ETX-125EC USER FEEDBACK
This page is for user comments and information specific to the Meade ETX-125EC. Comments on accessories and feedback items appropriate to other ETX and DS models are posted on other pages. If you have any comments, suggestions, questions or answers to questions posed here, e-mail them to me and I'll post them. Please use an appropriate Subject Line on your message. Thanks.
Subject: etx-125 portability Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 12:36:07 From: Elco.D.Hollander@opc.shell.com (Hollander, Elco ED OGNL-OGUF) love your site. since two weeks i am the proud owner of an etx-125. this is my first scope, which makes me a complete newbie in the field (although i have worked with optics during my phd project). during the two weeks, i ran into 2 problems. one i fixed myself (solution given below, maybe it is useful for other people also) and one i would like your advice on. 1) since i do not have a drivers licence (not uncommon in the netherlands), i have a problem with the portability of the scope. i did buy the hard case carry, but i found out that the case is not in balance, due to the heavy base of the scope. this in particularly inconvenient if you have to walk some distance for finding a nice place to set up the scope. i figured that it would be much easier to carry the weight on your back by some means. i therefore constructed basically a backpack frame around the case by making use of standard stuff you can find in any hiking/camping shop (see attached figure). to make sure that the suitcase would not come loose from the frame, i made sure that every connection was tightly sewed together by making use of a standard sewing machine. i probably won't win a first prize for most beautiful stitches, but the suckers won't come loose again. better save than sorry ;) first i made two band for the long side of the case (green in drawing). these bands are closed and fit tightly around the case. i used about 10 cm extra band to stitch the band together. then i made two bands for the short side of the case (red in drawing). these bands should be about 20 cm too long. i connected two clips (like the ones you find on a backpack) to these bands. this gives you the means of tightly strapping the case in the harnass. also, you can conveniently remove the harnass from the case (otherwise you won't be able to open in ;) ). the next step was to sew the 4 bands together. took me a while, but it can be done. finally, i took the shoulder bands of an old backpack i had and attached them to the harnass (yellow in drawing). these bands should be rather large, since you probably want to carry the stuff in the winter also (i.e. thick coat). i tried it out and it works surprisingly well. the weight is no problem for someone in reasonable shape. also, since the case is on its side, the weight is in balance. al together, the stuff costs about 10 dollar or so, and say one rainy afternoon. i was quite pleased with the result.Mike here: The tube should not rotate when the allen screws inserted and tightened down. I suspect you missed getting the tab that holds the tube adapters locked in place. No, there is no blueprint of the design although there are lots of similar info on the Telescope Tech Tips page. As to alignment problems, check the day/time/daylight savings/location settings. Also, be certain you have TRAINed the drives. There are lots of alignment tips on the Autostar Information page.
2) i have had some time to use the scope now. weather conditions weren't great (warm and humid), but i could see the moon, mars, saturn and the pleiades. these were all objects that i could see by the naked eye and could find manually with the scope. this is when i found out that i had some trouble with the autostar stuff. i read the instructions, calibrated the motors, used stars not too close to the horizon, etc. still, the scope was off by several fields of view, even with a 40 mm eye piece. on your web page, i found the comments on performance enhancement. frankly, i don't think i am brave enough to do all the stuff mentioned there. i did find out that there is a considerable amount of 'play' in the support arms. i also found out that my scope seems to have three (not two) allen screws in the back. i did loosen them, found out that the tube could be rotated, found out that i could not pull the OTA back, then decided to give it up. however, after tightening the allen screws again, i could still rotate the OTA. this is where i got worried. did i screw up ? if so then i might have a small problem :( what i would like to know is: is it standard that the optical tube can be rotated, even with the allen screws in place ? if not, do you have any idea what could have gone wrong ? also, i would REALLY kill for a blueprint of the scope, to see what you will run into when opening up the scope. is that available somewhere ? i hope you can help me out here. regards, dick
Subject: Is the ETX=125EC suitable for use around the equator? Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 10:46:53 From: email@example.com I live in Singapore which is just above the equator. I am new to astronomy and have been surfing the web to find a good telescope to start this past time. Presently, I have narrowed my choice of purchase to either the Meade ETX-125EC or the Celestron Nexstar 5. It seems to me that all these telescopes are designed to perform best at higher or lower latitude. Considering where I am living, would the ETX-125EC or the Nexstar 5 be a better choice. Regards David ChinMike here: When used in the Alt/Az mode, either telescope can work near the equator. They will both suffer from the same limitation of easy access to the rear port when pointed near the Zenith (true in Alt/Az from any latitude). For observational use, this is not usually too much a problem. But you will have a problem if you want to do "prime focus" astrophotography. There just isn't much room for a camera to be mounted at the rear port when pointed high in the sky. As to the pros and cons of each telescope, you can read about my experiences, linked from the top of the current "ETX-125EC Feedback" page.
Subject: Declination motor failures. Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 19:32:09 From: firstname.lastname@example.org (Gav and Ali Hunt) I have been reading your site now for sometime and find it very useful, I bought my father an ETX 125 some 6 months ago and was so impressed I bought myself an LX90.To date I have had 100% success with the LX90 but my father, very little with the ETX125. The ETX125 originally came with version 2.0g which was updated to 2.1ek from the Meade Website. Since then my father has now had what appears to be a two failures of the declination motor. We think, but are not sure, that the telescope is always rotating in the same clockwise direction to locate an object and as a result it is winding the cord round inside, disconnecting it from the electronics. The first time this happened the scope was replaced by Meade, now it has happened again and we are worried that it might be something we are doing wrong. Is it possible to make the scope always rotate in a clockwise direction? Is there a mechanical stop in the clockwise direction to avoid cord wrap ( we are aware of the stop in the anti clockwise direction) Is there a known issue with 2.1EK causing the above to happen? As this has occurred on two different scopes is it a fault with autostar? The autostar is set-up for the ETX125 and this appears to automatically select the cord wrap function. What should we check next? Best regards Gavin HuntMike here: There are (or supposed to be) hard stops in both directions on the ETX-90EC and ETX-125EC models. As long as the Autostar is initially aligned from the proper Home position, neither hard stop should be reached in normal GOTO-ing. You can slew to a hard stop but that normally should not damage the wires. However, some users have experienced "wire cutting" in normal operation but I don't recall any reports of the wires being pulled loose. There is no way to force the direction of movement. I don't recall this being a problem with 2.1Ek but I would suggest upgrading to 2.2Er. Remember to RESET and RETRAIN prior to the first alignment. Of course, if the scope keeps pulling out the wires (with the Cord Wrap ON), check that both hard stops are there by rotating the telescope around the vertical axis. It should go around a couple of times (I'm on travel and can't check the exact amount). Finally, if the scope has been damaged, since it is still under warranty I would suggest contacting Meade (again).
Subject: Photoadaptor for ETX125 Sent: Monday, August 20, 2001 15:44:19 From: email@example.com (Andreas Graesser) I own a Meade ETX125 and I'm planning to start with astrophotography. My Question: There are two possible adaptors from Meade for the ETX. 1. Fokaladaptor #64 for ETX (ArtNr. 410152) 2. Variable Fokal- and Projectionadaptor 1" (ArtNr. 410130) My Dealer told me, that he only used the Fokaladaptor #64 for ETX. Therefore I hope that you can answer my question. Makes it sense, to use the Variable Fokal- and Projectionadaptor 1" with the ETX125 ? And where are the difficulties ? Many thanks for your answer Best Regards Andreas GraesserMike here: I've used both the #64 T-Adapter and the Basic Camera (Projection) Adapter with the ETX-90. You can see my comments on the Accessories - Astrophotography page.
Subject: Broken Gear holding bracket Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2001 18:02:14 From: RLibby@aol.com After several nights of resonable good behavior, my ETX 125 was slewing from Arcturus to Altair, when I heard a new noise..the sound of gears not meshing! I shut it off, and put it back in the case. The night was not ruined, as I had my trusty 90 mm. Anyway, in the light of day, I checked the batteries, which were marginal, and put on an external power supply.. Same results. Carefully opening the bottom, so as not to disturb those little wires from battery box, I noticed that a piece of the plastic bracket that holds the gears in place was riding loosely on the shaft..In my ETX, it is blue plastic. An attempt will be made this afternoon to repair it with epoxy, after cleaning the grease off...and if that fails, a call to Meade in the morning will be made. Anyone else have this problem? If not, why me? Ralph LibbyMike here: I suspect a call to Meade is in order, especially if still under warranty.
Warranty has long expired, however the epoxy seems to be working...I will give it a try on the sky tonite, I hope.
Subject: Major modification of the ETX125. Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2001 00:48:02 From: firstname.lastname@example.org (Blais Klucznik) I just thought I'd pass on a message saying that I finished doing a major modification to my ETX125's elevation mechanics and it is ready to go. As the weather here is bad I only performed tests inside but the initial results are very satisfying. You are probably aware that this is my 3rd ETX125 as the first two were returned to the dealer one or two days after receiving them but I thought I would hang with this 3rd one. Originally this 3rd telescope had problems when trying to do an AZ-EL calibration and only passed after successive tries. Sometimes I could not successfully pass the two star alignment at all and gave up for the night. I lived with this for 6 months before this alignment situation made me decide to perform the tune-ups as delineated by Blessings and Clay. When I performed those tune-ups this ETX worked like a charm. For two months, or 40-50 observing sessions, you couldn't ask more from the telescope. Then one day last week it would not move in elevation at all. The only response was a clicking sound of slipping gears. It was then that I decided to overhaul this vertical drive mechanical assembly once and for all. I already stated, in previous notes, that I had filled the entire inside of the elevation drive knob with industrial epoxy and drilled and tapped the knob for a set screw but all of this was already submitted to this group. Thus all that follows applies to the right vertical support portion of the ETX mount as viewed from the rear. This major modification consisted of: (1) Removing the tapped 1/4" aluminum rivet out of the OTA support and scrapping it. (2) Remove the drive gear, clutch plate and the keyed mechanical stop from the OTA support. (3) Replace with the gear, a 1/32" hard rubber washer, clutch plate and keyed mechanical stop. (4) Reinsert the OTA support arm assembly into the vertical support. (4) Drill a 1/4" hole completely through the center of the knob preferably using a drill press. (3) Re-assemble the knob and its assembly in this fashion using stainless steel components only: (a) Place a 1" fender washer on a 3" 1/4x20 hex head bolt (with a 2" shank). (b) Insert this assembly through the knob center hole from the outside of the knob. (c) Slide the dummy circle, and a 1" fender washer over the protruding bolt. (d) Inset this knob assembly into the OTA assembly. (e) On the inside of the OTA support arm place a 11/16 fender washer, a 5/8 spring washer and a 1/4x20 nut. (f) Very firmly secure this whole assembly. I used a 7/16 box wrench and a 7/16 socket wrench. At this point I now tried the vertical drive mechanism using the Autostar. It responded to each and every command. I then set the driven OTA arm to be parallel with the work table, grasped it solidly and asked my wife to push the down arrow on the Autostar. As the arm could not actually lower itself due to my firm hold it started to raise the whole telescope base off the table. All this and the 1/2A--12volt power supply fuse did not blow. Then I assembled the OTA to the scope and again played with the El and Az for a good 20 minutes with no evidence of sluggishness. Everything in the vertical drive assembly is now very secure mechanically. No "not too tight here". There has really been no damage to the drilled knob. With the fender washer under the hex bolt head it matches the color of the silver circle Meade had placed on it and actually looks like an image of a star with a diffraction ring. The final proof of the rigidity and repeatability of this overhaul will be the day to day usage we get from it. If the ETX125 performs as well as it did the last two months then it will have been worth it. It is unfortunate that Meade didn't see it that way. Blais Klucznik email@example.comMike here: Someday, when design, materials, costs, marketing, etc. reach perfect harmony we'll have the perfect telescope. The bummer is that it will be from Microsoft... ;)
From: firstname.lastname@example.org (Clay Sherrod) Sounds like an excellent design and plan. Solid. I would not place too much resistance (i.e., holding back the attempt of the scope to move) on the drive system though, even in testing, as the lock and clutch are not the only thing that receive torque when pressing the arrow keys. The small motor and the gear cluster are VERY delicate and about 2 out of 10 telescopes that come into me for work are the result of stripped nylon reducer gears that have been locked up, can't move, and subsequently break or strip down to where the drive will NOT work. That is something that you cannot fix, as the entire assembly must be installed by Meade....you cannot buy the replacement gears. On the other hand, you have done a fantastic job....your ETX 125 must be a workhorse and I am sure that we would all like to see some photos if possible of this "extreme" modification. Thanks again for the updates! Clay SherrodAnd:
From: email@example.com (Blais Klucznik) No, I didn't really overdo this Clay. I only ran a short test of this function. My wording made it sound more viscious than it actually was. As far as the clutch and the locking device goes Clay we both seem to have a slightly different objective as we seem to use our scopes differently. Fist of all I do not claim to be correct here only voicing my opinion. I feel that in order to reduce the vertical slewing error rate we do not want the driven gear on the OTA arm to slip while it is slewing to its target. Thus, during this interval the clutch should play no active part. I have insured, as best as I can, that this does not happen during this time. Now if we drive the scope into its stop position then we need this clutch to play its part in allowing the OTA arm driven gear to slip thus preventing damage to the locking mechanism. In my case, using the Az-El mounting only, the range of vertical travel is 0 degrees to 90 degrees and thus a vertical mechanical stop is never reached. If I were to use the 887 polar mount, which I no longer do, then i would have to modify the assembly in accordance with your wise words. (I use the positive meaning of wise here Clay.) > The small motor and the gear cluster are VERY delicate and about 2 out of 10 > telescopes that come into me for work are the result of stripped nylon > reducer gears that have been locked up............... (cut) This factor is considered as noted above. Yet this is not the only reason for the gear that is attached to the vertical drive worm gear shaft to be stripped. I mentioned a clicking sound when my scope failed after about a 2+ month period of amazing performance. What I found to be the cause for this clicking was the long shaft with the vertical drive worm on one end and the motor griven gear near the other end had excessive play due to its sloppy fit into the crude hole in the plastic case that housed the motor, encoder, etc. I could actually move this end of the shaft sufficiently to almost free this gear's teeth from the driven gear. Correcting this flaw was no trivial matter but I was finally was able to secure this end of the shaft so there was no apparent change in the axial distance between these two gears and still allow the long shaft with the worm on one end to rotate freely. I wonder if this is the position that Meade has decided to use a 'ball-bearing' in their new ETX125s? As Dick mentioned in a previous comment, we'll see. Thank You for your thoughtful reply Clay. Blais KlucznikAnd a report:
Subject: First actual trial run a success Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2001 01:22:20 Just a note saying that my modified ETX125 ran like a champ for over 6 hours tonight. Really ran it through a series of GOTOs and man it GOTO'd each time. Then about 10:15 PM EDST I instructed it to go to M92. Bang and there was M92 in the eyepiece. For the next hour and one-half, while I was looking at M92 with my Dobs to see how many individual stars in the cluster I could count, the ETX125 kept M92 in the eyepiece. My wife was the field judge on the ETX. Motor drive, gear driving sounds and 12VDC battery current consumption was actually more stable than before this modification. I could always tell when there was some minor gear slippage on the ETX before because of the slight current oscillation when the scope was driven in the vertical direction, especially when increasing altitude. I was very satisfied with the ETX125's performance tonight. Yet one nights performance means just that. I will need several weeks of this type of usage and testing before I finally put this issue to bed and hopefully pat myself on the back. Long way to go yet and I certainly don't want to count my chickens. Good Night or Good Morning to the crew Blais Klucznik firstname.lastname@example.orgAnd:
From: email@example.com (Clay Sherrod) Congratulations....I knew that based on your modifications and dedication to getting it just right that it would, indeed, work. Sounds like that was just what you needed...perhaps now you can really enjoy that ETX with many observations and fewer frustrations! Clay SherrodAnd another update:
Subject: A GO tonight Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2001 00:56:19 From: firstname.lastname@example.org (Blais Klucznik) Day 2 with the ETX125. Worked like a charm for 5-1/2 hours. Tracked M31 for two hours and target remained in the eyepiece. Haven't used the SYNC function yet. GREAT!! Blais Klucznik
Subject: My new ETX 125EC Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 13:26:37 From: email@example.com (Jensen, Denise) Rank beginner here so please forgive my lack of proper terminology. I am wondering how people with this scope are seeing polar caps on mars, or the rings of Saturn. Even with my 9.7 lens in I am only seeing just a little spot of light in the sky, no exciting details. The Moon is great however! I am also experiencing a little trouble with the autostar controlling the horizontal directions (I've made sure the lever is tight on the base) I have to push the horizontal buttons 10 or 11 times before it moves at all and then it jumps much further than it should and keeps going. The vertical is quick and responsive in comparison. I appreciate any suggestions, Thanks DeniseMike here: Depending upon how high in the sky Mars is at your location, you can get better or worse views. And the view quality also depends a great deal on your observing conditions (smog, smoke, haze, heat sources like roofs or parking lots, etc.). So, yes it is possible to have seen some details on Mars although the current dust storm on Mars is hiding a lot. The Rings of Saturn are easy if you have reasonable observing conditions. You might try letting the telescope reach "thermal equilibrium" by waiting 30 minutes and as much as two hours (depending upon the temperature differential) after you take it outside to observe. As to the Autostar, it could be that the buttons are just "stiff", which will improve with use. I presume you have tried changing the slewing speed. If you have any problems with the Autostar that you are certain are not "operator error", TRAIN the drives. If that doesn't cure it, RESET and RETRAIN.
Thank you for your quick reply! I will put your suggestions to good use. Your web site is a goldmine for someone like me who is just beginning to look upwards at night ... this is all too cool :)
Subject: random altitude slew etx125 Sent: Sunday, August 5, 2001 15:36:24 From: firstname.lastname@example.org (SR) anyone ever experience a random slew of maybe 5 to 10 degrees altitude while tracking on an object..Ive had it happen a couple of times. thanks, SteveMike here: This occurred with some older ETX-125EC scopes with older Autostar versions. It seems to have been fixed in more recent versions. Update to 2.2Er if you can. If you don't have an Autostar, see the Meade Announcement on the home page.
I looked at my Autostar's "statistic" section and it came back with version 2.0g..do I have to upgrade to an intermediate version before upgrading to the latest version (is it 2.4?)..I am a little confused by meades notes.. I did buy a second autostar as a spare this past week which is also version 2.0g..I don't think it was sitting on the dealers shelf too long either, so I wonder why it is so old a version. I do have the #505 cable and i have a basic idea of downloading a newer version but feel shakey about it.Mike here: You can upgrade from the older version to the 2.2Er ROMs using the Autostar Updater application v2.4. Grab the full updater 2.4 which comes with 2.1Ek ROM files from Meade's site. Then grab the 2.2Er ROM files. Run the program you downloaded with 2.4. It creates everything on your hard disk. The run the unzipping of the 2.2Er ROM files and copy the two individual ROM files into the Emphemerides folder in the Autostar subdirectory (I forget the exact name of the Autostar directory), replacing the 2.1Ek ROM files that are there. Connect the Autostar/ETX and computer and turn on the ETX. Then run the Updater application. All is pretty straightforward from there.
Subject: The Beautiful Blue ETX-125 Sent: Saturday, August 4, 2001 21:27:13 From: email@example.com (Blais Klucznik) After two months of flawless operation as a GOTO, that is following a 6-month period that it was essentially useless, the ETX125 performance even amazed a skeptic such as I. Then, a few days ago, upon turning the unit on for initialization the scope would not moved either up or down in elevation. I did hear what appeared to be a slipping clutch and shut down power. This evening I decided to take the ETX apart once more to determine what the cause for this failure was. What I found out disgusted me but I would like to pass the findings on to the group in order to possibly aid them or warn them of a prospective problem. When I started this evening I found that I could not loosen the knob that is secured to the elevation drive clutch and gearing. It turned but did not loosen. (This is the right-hand side of the scope with the OTA pointed away from you.) Because I had previously modified the knob used on this side of the scope by adding a set-screw through a hole drilled and tapped a hole into the knob for a set-screw in order to firmly secure the knob to its very small pressed-in screw it was a simple case of loosening this set screw and removing the knob leaving its short pressed-in screw in the drive assembly. I then investigated why I couldn't loosen the knob in the conventional way. What I found was that the knob pressed-in screw was screwed into a tapped hollow 1/4" aluminum tube that had a flat head resembling a nail or rivet. This rivet looking 1/4" tapped tubing was simply pressed into the plastic housing from the inside of the vertical support arm and epoxied at its head-like tip to the plastic housing. As the tubing was not difficult to remove from the plastic housing it clearly showed that the only means of securing this item to the support arm was a thin coating of epoxy on the top inside of the nail-like head. Previously I had witnessed a dealer render defective one of these ETX125's by trying to tighten this knob during a demonstration but wasn't sure what caused the failure but I now realize that ALL owners of the ETX125 might eventually be faced with the same failure caused by the same mechanism. This is really unfortunate because after rebuilding the scope, per the information of Blessings and Clay Sherrod two months ago, this scope has been marvelous. Yet very poor design and manufacturing will rear its ugly head. Fact of Life. Its the case of pay now or pay later. Blais Klucznik firstname.lastname@example.orgAnd:
From: email@example.com (Clay Sherrod) That is, indeed, unfortunate but a very common problem. Most times, yet I doubt in your case since you have taken such care and thought on the use of your ETX, the problem originates by the owner tightening WAY too much in the Altitude clamp. Part Two: usually this over-tightening is a direct result of the clamp slipping in the first place. Nonetheless, this IS a very weak point in the ETX design and one that hopefully Meade will address. I fix way too many of these stripped-out threaded tubes, and yes it is always broken away from the epoxied and press fitting. Certainly I would recommend you attempt to re-fit via some Superglue or epoxy as this will remedy the problem in 4 out of 5 cases. But once again, my advise is to never overtighten this axis....just enough to engage the motors to move the telescope. Best of luck. I am sure that you will get your scope jumping through hoops in no time! Clay SherrodAnd this:
I do agree with you Clay on the two points you make in reference to the secondary cause of this particular failure mechanism but, to me, the primary cause is the design and manufacture of the ETX125 vertical drive mechanics itself. How anyone with any mechanical design education and experience could produce such an abortion is somewhat beyond me. Then again we do wonder what our new engineers are being taught today, don't we. The whole purpose of any drive of a driven mechanism is to consistently move the mechanism to a predetermined position. The gearing HAS to be firmly secured to minimize any slippage. It should take great effort for one to over-secure and destroy the mechanism. This certainly is not true of the ETX125. Keep in mind I saw a Meade representative do exactly as I have done during a demonstration of the ETX125 to an audience. Based on my many years of experience dealing with militarized equipment in many guises I, no mechanical engineer, can come up with a much more secure and foolproff method of doing just that and not what Meade presents to the general public. As you are a busy person Clay please do not take up what little time you have to answer my notes. I just thought I would pass my findings to you although I did feel you were already aware of this I would also like to say THANKS for your continuing release of the CONSTELLATION themes on Mike's site. Thank You Blais Klucznik
Subject: Advice needed.... Sent: Friday, August 3, 2001 12:21:54 From: firstname.lastname@example.org (Ken Mallard) Website is GREAT! I own a great LX200 scope. However, I'm looking for a lighter scope for mobility purposes (actually was recently diagnosed with a back disorder). I'm trying to make this as inexpensive as possible...I'm interested in the ETX125..is it possible to mount it on my existing LX200 tripod? Maybe with some type of adaptor? Thanks again..your website has helped answer many questions for me concerning the ETX scopes..(my question above may be answered there as well..sorry if I missed it). -KenMike here: The ETX Advanced Field Tripod is the same as the LX200 tripod. An adapter is available separately for those who already have the tripod.
Subject: Internal battery problem on ETX-125 Sent: Thursday, August 2, 2001 6:00:33 From: email@example.com (Ells Dutton) I have the same problem with my ETX-125, internal battery power no longer works. Have not been too concerned because of using either the AC or external batteries but sure would be nice on occasions to have the internal supply working. I do have easy access to the ETX's control panel, and internal power is good all the way to the connections to the board. But, I have not figured any way to unstick the "springy shutoff thing", if indeed that is the problem, which makes good sense. The scope is well used now, having finally finished the Herschel-400 search with it, barely, and figure it may be getting about time for the Sherrod tune up anyway. So, would like to know if the battery problem might be fixable also. Having recently purchased an LX200 10" (missed the deal on the 12" but got an excellent buy on a used 10"), I could part with the ETX for a few weeks now. Ells
Subject: ETX 125 Spotter Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 21:59:28 From: firstname.lastname@example.org (Rick and Nicole Happoldt) I have been considering a second scope to go with my 8" LX200. I was thinking about a 4" refractor, but the cost is higher than I want to spend. I don't care for achromats. I need something easy to set up, doesn't need batteries, has great optics for lunar and planetary, and would also work well on my bogen tripod (maybe even with a TeleVue mount). So, I thought about the ETX 125 spotter! What can you tell me about the 125's optical performance on the moon, planets, and brighter deep sky stuff. Any input would be great! RickMike here: See my ETX-125EC comments (linked at the top of the "ETX-125EC Feedback" page).
Check the Feedback Archives for previous editions of the ETX-125EC Feedback pages.
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