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Last updated: 31 May 2003 |
Subject: 884 Tripod Problems Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 09:16:32 From: MICROFAB@aol.com I wonder if this problem has been encountered and solved. I just received my tripod and I notice that when my compass is anywhere near it, the north indication is way off. It appears that the nuts holding the legs are magnetic. Am I crazy or what? I considered trying a cassette tape demagnitizer... JimMike here: Metal can distort magnetic fields. Also the motors in the drives can affect it. So it should not be surprising that this occurs. Be surprised when the compass is accurate! Keep in mind that when using Magnetic North you need to correct for your local Magnetic Variation to determine True North, which is what a properly aligned telescope mount needs.
Subject: zzzzzzzzCRACK!zzzzzzzzz... Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 14:44:05 From: patlejch@volny.cz (Goran & Vera) Few weeks ago I bought ETX-90EC. I am pretty familiar with user comments on your website so I knew what to expect: excellent optics and (possibly) some problems with mechanics or autostar. So, I was not surprised when I tried it for the first starry night: during vertical (up or down) movement of the OTA, pretty loud CRACK-sounds could be heard - two or three during rotation from 0- to 90 degrees (Alt-Az). I found that one of ETX-125 users had similar problem but he was told that 125 is notorious for making weird noise and that problem will go away when system lossens. No error messages on autostar display. Careful observation detected barely visible jerk when CRACK-sound is heard. I use a third-party 12V/1500mA adapter. Any thoughts on that? Thanks in advance. Best wishes from Prague. GoranMike here: If there is no jerking in movement when the sound occurs then it may not be serious. I've never heard one make that sound so can't comment from experience. But it does sound like something is catching someplace. Definitely worth watching. Be certain you are not overtightening the axis lock.
Subject: ETX sales Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 08:55:53 From: Steven.Chavez@dot.state.co.us (Chavez, Steven A) Harvard Camera is selling out 105Ec's with autostar and a 884 tripod for $595. Steve Chavez
Subject: a solar filter "adapter"? Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 06:56:41 From: kyle@barks.org (Kyle Barger) I wonder if anybody has any ideas for making a filter adapter for my ETX90 (which I decided to buy, and which arrived damaged, so I'm waiting for a replacement, but that's another story). I have a Thousand Oaks solar filter which was custom sized for my home built 4.5" dob. The outside diameter of the dob's tube is just a bit over 6". And I still have some of the tube I used to make it. So I thought, rather than buy a filter for the ETX90, maybe I could cut a couple inches length of the tube and line it on the inside with something about an inch thick, so it could fit over the ETX90 tube and then accept the solar filter. Any suggestions for how I might line the tube? Thanks!Mike here: You could get some styrofoam and paint it black. Glue some blocks of it around the inner circumference to hold the tube in place. Just a thought.
Subject: New addition to ASO site: AstroWire News Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 13:20:03 From: drclay@arksky.org (P. Clay Sherrod) We have just added a very quick and easy real-time astronomy NEWS update service (AstroWire [tm]) to the Arkansas Sky Observatory website. This great source is updated when events warrant throughout the day, 24-7. This is a wonderful and very rapid way to gain access to the most current news in astronomy as it happens as well as updates on other current events. The link can be found on the home page of ASO at: http://www.arksky.org/ Hope this can be of use to you.... Clay ---------------------------------------- Dr. P. Clay Sherrod drclay@arksky.org Arkansas Sky Observatory MPC/cbat Obs. H43 / Conway MPC/cbat Obs. H41 / Petit Jean Mountain http://www.arksky.org/
Subject: ETX 90EC - Hunk of Junk? Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 13:14:38 From: mteige@yahoo.com (Michael Teige) I have had it with this P.O.S. of mine. Last night was the last straw. After fighting it for over an hour in the cold trying to train the drives I found out why I was having so much pain. Both the RA & DEC locks have failed! With both locks engaged I am able to move the scope in either direction with only gentle pressure. I took the advice of Jordan Blessing and others and make sure that the clamps were not broken in any way and about a month ago I took the thing apart and looked. The clamps were not busted and no repair seemed necessary other than cleaning up all the grease. Well none of the minor stuff I did helped any. I don't see why I need to spend money on a scope I paid almost $1000 on in 2000 to make it work. This thing should just work as advertised right out of the box. Were do I begin? 1. One night it almost came crashing down onto the concrete because one of the legs failed on the #883 Field Tripod. If I had not been right by it (I had wandered away and returned just moments earlier) it would have hit the deck and become really damaged. All 3 tripod legs have since failed and I had to stick shims into the clamps to make the legs stiff. Consequently the tripod legs are not adjustable this way. 2. I have never been able to get GoTo to work with the Autostar no matter what I have tried. I have tried Polar alignment and non-polar to no avail. I have spent more time training the drives and calibrating the motors than I have spent viewing (no exaggeration there, really). Giving up on GoTo I tried just having the sidereal tracking work but that failed miserably as well. Things drift away from center much faster with the sidereal tracking turned on. 3. There is a smudge on the front of the optics and what appears to be a fingerprint but since they were way to one side I didn't make a big deal of it, but it's rather telling. And no, it's not my doing. I have never touched the front lens and my kids are not tall enough or have nimble enough hands to unscrew the dust cap and go to town on the optics with their sticky hands. 4. The failure of both clamps to adequately hold the OTA in place makes the scope useless for what I purchased it for. GoTo does not work and the sidereal tracking does not work. So here I am stuck with a tripod that I cannot adjust in height and a telescope that is nothing more than an OTA mounted to a tabletop that I must manually move on both axes by hand. This is what I paid a grand for? And I don't factor the Autostar or the #883 tripod into the cost. Those were freebies and the fact that they would cost $300 separately is irrelevant. I could buy a 90mm "MAK" scope from Orion that includes a Tripod (a nice one at that) with an optional tracking motor (that I'm sure would actually work) for around $350 with a free carrying bag to boot! To add insult to injury I can buy an ETC 125EC with UHTC and a free #884 tripod and AutoStar for about what I paid for this hunk 'o junk 2 years ago. I see that the 125EC forks are internal aluminum structure with high-impact ABS and the bearings are Dec: ball bearings; R.A.: ball bearings. The ETX 90 EC forks are steel-reinforced high-impact ABS and the bearings are Nylon, both axes. Is this why it's so weak? Do the real ball bearings and the more solid forks make the 125 any better? Or do 125 owners have this same grief? Either way I left an angry voicemail with some supervisor at Meade. The regular phone-drone I got when I called did not want to deal with me after I said how do they have the gall to ask me to pay $75.00 on top of the packing and shipping costs to have them inspect a scope I paid almost $1000 for that never worked in the first place. He was real quick to transfer me. Of course the thing went to voicemail. I am convinced that supervisors have 2 phones on their desk, one for angry customers and another for everyone else. If the red one rings, let it go to voicemail so the supervisor is not caught off guard and can prepare a response. Well let's see what sort of offer Meade makes in an attempt to please me. My guess is that I'll be speaking to the supervisors manager before this saga ends. Lets hope I dont have to go too high up the food chain to get some satisfaction. -Michael TeigeAnd:
Already I got a voice mail from the supervisor at Meade and all he did was quote regulations at me. Paraphrasing a bit: "We can't possibly offer free repairs on an out of warranty scope and we offer the #884 tripod that is built by a different vendor that does not have the problems of the other model. Feel free to buy one." Gee thanks! I left him another voicemail (these guys are never at their desks eh?) telling him these non-options of his are not acceptable. I can tell this is going to be a long uphill battle. I better find out who the CEO of Meade is because I think I'll need to go that high ;-) Later, -Michael
Subject: Meade email...
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 06:17:20
From: steinirey@simnet.is (Sigursteinn Haukur)
My name is Sigursteinn Haukur Reynisson and I live in Iceland. yes I'm
going to see the solar eclipse on friday :o) if it is not raining, that
is!!! I recently bought ETX-125 UHTC telescope from Amazon.com. I
haven't actually tried it because it is newer dark in the summer in
Iceland. I'm pleased with the equipment but I've had two kinds of
problems.
I get the "popular" motor drive failure when the autostar has been
tracking any star (or the ceiling of my apartment :o) for a while
(2-5min). I was wandering if the pressure on the coupling for Ra or
horizontal (what ever it is called) movement, could be causing this. I
can only move the handle to the middle not all the way. I'm a little
afraid of destroying the drive if I tighten it to much. How far should I
be able to rotate it and how hard should I tighten it to make sure the
coupling doesn't slip? I am using brand new batteries and no
obstructions are in the way of the scope.
The other problem is the $99 eyepiece deal at meade.com I can't find any
email addresses that I could use on their website.
When I bought the telescope I had to get myself an address in the US. I
would now like to use the same address to get the eyepieces. It would be
a lot easier for me to pay with credit card and then send the invoice as
an attachment via e-mail and I've already registered online so I
shouldn't have to send them that form. BUT I HAVE NO EMAIL ADDRESS FROM
MEADE and that's where you come in :o)
You should be getting payed from Meade for all the advertisement you
give them. I really enjoy browsing your site and it seems to be endless
informattion on it. In a small town in Iceland there aren't so many
interested in Astronomy that you and your website replace my starparty.
Reading about people that think like I do is not so common for me :o) I
am an electronic technician and therefore I enjoy even more to read
about all the little modifications that you can do on your telescope or
even better. everything around it to begin with ;o)
Keep up the good work and you will probably be hearing from me again !!!
Best regards
Sigursteinn Haukur Reynisson (I'm called Steini)
steinirey@simnet.is
Iceland
Mike here: Meade has only one public email address: engineer@meade.com and that is for reporting software bugs and other problems. They don't use it for technical or sales support. They prefer to use the phone or fax for customer support. So, you would have to mail or fax in the order information for the $99 eyepiece deal. As to the MUFs, you could be overlocking the azimuth axis. It should be just tight enough to allow slewing to occur. Most times that puts the locking lever midway in the groove. But do check the proper HOME position (including the rotations to/from the hardstop) and the connections on the Autostar cable. Doing a CALIBRATE and TRAIN DRIVES may help. Lastly, a RESET may cure it.
And:
That was fast!!! Thanks, I'll try this!!! Steini
Subject: Re[2]: Flip mirror and star diagonal Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 01:34:05 From: Rich Cutler Many thanks for your speedy reply. On 29 May 2003, 1:23:55 AM, you wrote: Mac> The only problem with trying to replace [the flip mirror] will be Mac> ensuring collimation, or in this case, that the mirror is not Mac> tilted side-to-side. Probably not too difficult ... Meade's way of mounting the flip mirror assembly isn't exactly high precision anyway with its somewhat wobbly steel pin through plastic bushes, and spring that doesn't quite lock and allows a few degrees of up and down movement! So, I may have a go... Regarding sideways mirror tilt, if this is out it should be visible when viewing through the eyepiece, so hopefully I can correct it through trial and error. Looking through the eyepiece I can't see any obvious artefacts owing to the minor scratches (two, lengthways down the centre of the flip mirror), so I'm actually wondering if the scratches have any impact in practice, so just leave the mirror alone! What do you think? Regards RichMike here: The effect of the scratches would be to create extra reflections and flares, reducing contrast or reducing image quality. HOWEVER, you may not be able to notice any problems depending upon the exact nature of the scratches. So, yes, try it before assuming the worse.
Subject: ETX-125 focus vibrations Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 20:07:16 From: sam-nan@juno.com (Sam Nothman) I would like to thank you for your web site on the ETX scopes. It has proved most useful. I have had my ETX-125 for about a month and have used it numerous times. It has worked very well each time. With proper setup in alt-az mode with two star alignment I have had excellent success as all objects I have located have appeared almost dead center in the FOV of a 26mm eyepiece. The optics are excellent. Its tracking is very good as I let it track on various objects for 30 minutes. One problem I find annoying is focusing- the knob is not located in the most accessible place and there is much vibration that occurs-afterwhich the object being viewed needs to be recentered in the FOV. I have seen a flexable shaft cable that Scopetronix makes to replace the focus knob. They claim that it significantly reduces vibrations and improves focusing. Have you heard or used one of these? If so, what are your thoughts? I know that an electric focuser would probably work well too, but I didnt want to spend that much to correct the problem. Thank you for your time, Sam NothmanMike here: I have the Scopetronix Flexifocus (see the Accessory Reviews - Miscellaneous page).
Subject: Older ETX 125 Broken Dec drive mounts Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 18:14:10 From: mrwizard@flash.net (Keith T. Johnson) I was on vacation in remote northern Wisconsin last September, I noticed excess play in the Dec. drive of my ETX 125. When I dissembled the forks to investigate, the dec. drive mounting bosses and broken parts literally fell out on the table. I never expected a state of the art scope for $895, but I have seen better designed plastic Chinese toys at Wal-Mart. By using a handful of 2-56 screws, washers and nuts, I jury-rigged the mess well enough to last for 2 weeks! This scope is out of warrantee (2000), and has only been out of the box 6 times in 3 years. I called Mead and asked for help? Specifically can they convert, or remount the tube on a newer aluminum forks, or can I purchase the parts to do it myself? ( I am a machinist for the Department of Energy). Mead said NO!. with no other explanation. As a person that owns an 12" LX200, with 416 camera, eyepieces, and about Do you, or anyone of the fine folks on your site have any suggestions for my dilemma, or do I now own a spotting scope?< Keith Johnson Chicago ILMike here: If the Right Tube Adapter failed you could get a replacement RTA from Meade.
Subject: Flip mirror and star diagonal Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 13:51:43 From: Rich Cutler Greetings from England! I bought a second-hand ETX-105 with UHTC optics for a good price that has minor damage. The OTA and its optics are in excellent condition, as are the electronics. I've fixed the damage to the mount, but would like to know what to do about the flip mirror, which has a few light scratches (straight down the middle naturally!). I was thinking about buying a star diagonal, removing its mirror and using this to replace the one in my ETX. Is this feasible? If so, should I use the mirror from a basic star diagonal (e.g. from Celestron or Helios) or go a bit more up market? (NB: I rebuild classic motorcycles, so I'm not worried about my ability to operate on my scope - just whether it's possible). Alternatively, do Meade sell spare parts, such as flip mirrors...? Best regards Rich CutlerMike here: Meade doesn't sell parts but may send you a replacement mirror (couldn't hurt to ask). The only problem with trying to replace it will be ensuring collimation, or in this case, that the mirror is not tilted side-to-side. Yes, you could add a high quality star diagonal at the rear; you will likely need a SCT adapter (see the Accessory Reviews - Miscellaneous page).
Subject: Great night of observing! Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 08:17:35 From: electra188@comcast.net (electra188@comcast.net) Thought I would send a positive report on two ETX scopes, my ETX-70AT and ETX-105EC. I set up the 70 for evening viewing of Jupiter, Vesta, M13, and the Coma Bernice cluster. I enjoyed fantastic views of all, with eyepiece' 9.7 through 26mm. I set up the 105 for this mornings planet parade. I viewed Neptune, Mars, Uranus, the moon, Venus, and Mercury. In addition to M57 "ring nebula", and M27 "dumbbell nebula". The seeing conditions were average on a clear night with medium to moderate suburban light pollution in the evening, slightly better viewing conditions this morning. Everything that I "go to'd" BULLSEYED in the eyepiece (20mm), not the finder...the eyepiece. And of course the optics on these scopes are top notch. Both scopes perform great and I'm thrilled with both of them. Thanks for all of your work on the web site, advice in the past and helpful information. Warmest regards, electra188...Tim Haller
Subject: ETX 105 loose screw Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 21:36:47 From: javao@singnet.com.sg (christopher shaw) Last night, I was plagued by 'Motor failure' notices again. What was worse is that while it was slewing around on the tripod, suddenly there was a 'click click' sound - like some metal rolling inside the base'. I immediately stopped the scope and removed the battery compartment, thinking that maybe something in the battery compartment fell off. But when I tilted the scope, something seemed to be ROLLING around loose INSIDE the base. I removed all the batteries and tilted the scope gently when all of a sudden, a screw rolled out of one of the gaps in the battery compartment! Obviously, a screw had come loose in the motor! Maybe that is what is causing the motor failure notices to be so frequent the last three days! This is amazing - since the scope is hardly four months old - to have something actually come loose from the INSIDE. Note that I have treated the scope with care and have not bumped it. How can this happen?? What do I do? Its still under warranty but I don't want to risk shipping it back. Best regards ChrisMike here: Yes, not supposed to happen but it could either be a screw that came loose (for lots of reasons) or one that was not supposed to be there (errors happen). In either case it needs to be dealt with. If you purchased from a local dealer, contact them. Even if not from a local dealer, I would suggest contacting the dealer anyway. They may be able to exchange it. The alternative is for you to go inside and see if you can determine where it came from. You could end up causing more problems and invalidating the warranty.
Subject: Question 4U re: solar observing Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 20:04:13 From: skywatcher@satx.rr.com (Eric Juhr) I was surfing last nite and saw your webarticle on solar observing, and had a question about this: "Today we have specialized filters of all types for our telescopes that are entirely safe for both the observer and the equipment. Regarding equipment, you should NEVER allow sunlight to pass into a closed tube such as a Maksutov, Schmidt-Cass or refractor telescope; the heat will accumulate until eventually something is going to melt or pop." I know that "never" means "never", but were you saying that one should never let sunlight pass WITHOUT A FILTER into a Schmidt tube? Is using a full-aperture filter (mine's a Baader film unit) safe in terms of accumulating heat? Thanx for taking time out to reply! Eric Juhr Mount Mesquite Observatory San AntonioMike here: Any good full aperture solar filter (where the full aperture is covered, by either the filter or a solid surface) is safe to use. Be certain to always inspect the filter for damage before each use. DO NOT USE a damaged solar filter. Permanent eye and/or telescope damage can occur.
Subject: Thinking of buying an ETX. Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 16:39:22 From: aries339@attbi.com (Ty Benjamin) Hey there - great site! I figure you're the guy to ask - I'm thinking of getting an ETX. I'm on a fixed budget, but I need good quality. I was thinking the 105 or the 125. I live in a near-suburb of Chicago, where light polution is absolutely horrible. Being in such a bright area, would I notice a quality jump beween the 105 and the 125? Also, I prefer the "au natural" method of photography - just a 35mm camera and a t-adapter. How have the ETX's stacked up with 35mm implementation? How is the drive system? Good for piggybacking? Any insight is appreciated! ~TyMike here: Well, keep in mind that increased light gathering power of a larger aperture also means increased sky brightness from the light pollution. But if you plan to try out light pollution filters, then a large aperture is a must. If portability becomes a factor to get away from the lights, then you might go for the smaller telescope. Decisions, decisions, decisions... As to 35mm astrophotography, you can see many examples of that in the galleries as well as the Helpful Information -- Astrophotography pages. There are examples of piggyback and through the telescope. For through the telescope photography, short exposures will be required since you can not guide during the exposure (unless you add an off-axis camera attachment, and even then you can have problems with long exposures). For piggyback photography (which typically have long exposures) you will need to mount in Polar mode to avoid field rotation. This also applies to through the telescope astrophotography if you want to attempt long exposures.
And:
Your first response was quite informative. Thanks a lot! I had almost forgotten about the portability factor... I do indeed want to bring the scope on trips on my vacations to (very dark) rural Arizona... So, how long do you think I could take exposures with an off-axis guider? How often do I have to realign it? Also - how sensitive is the motor on the ETX series? Is it acceptible for making those tiny adjustments that are necessary with off-axis aligned exposures? Does the added weight and center-of-gravity difference decrease the motor or guidance system's effectiveness? Thanks again! ~TyMike here: Added weight without a good counterweight system will cause drags on the telescope drives, affecting tracking. If you tune up the drive/Autostar you can get reasonable guiding at prime focus for as long as you stay with the guiding.
And:
Again - thanks so much for your time! I have ordered my ETX 90, as well as some photographic supplies. I decided on the 90 for portability... I already own a Canon AE-1 35mm Camera, with a 50mm and a 300mm lens. I'm going to perfect my "technique" with the 50mm piggyback for a while, but then I'd like to start doing 300mm piggyback. What would you say is the best way to counterweight that heavy lens? Or, can I just make minor adjustments through the telescope eyepiece throughout the exposure? Eventually I'll do through-the-telescope 35mm. However I have been unable to locate an off-axis guider for the ETX. It seems all I can find are for the LX series. Any advice? Thanks! ~TyMike here: Making minor tracking adjustments through the eyepiece works fine for piggyback photography. Pick a bright star and use a high power eyepiece. As to counterweights, see the articles on the Helpful Information --> Astrophotography page. I haven't tried any off-axis guiders for the ETX (yet).
And:
thankee!!
Subject: New ETX "AT" Rumor at OPT? Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 13:10:27 From: jackdmail@yahoo.com (jack) I put a deposit to get on a waiting list for a ETX-125 at Oceanside Photo & Telescope on May 24th, 2003 and Craig Weatherwax my very helpful salesman mentioned that Meade is changing the model designation to "AT" (Automatic Telescope), replacing the ETX designation. Craig said it was just so they could have a new SKU number and that the telescope would be the same. I was wondering what you might have heard thru the grapevine on Meade's plan for the ETX line after May 31st? Is it going to be a revolutionary change and will my ETX which I should receive in mid to late June be an updated "AT" version or an older ETX version. Is there an advantage to waiting for an "AT" model. By the way I just ordered your book on the EXT from Amazon.com and an looking forward to reading it and trying out my new scope. Sincerely; Jack DuganMike here: I suspect the AT designation goes at the end: ETX-125AT. That would match the ETX-70AT, which includes the Autostar. Since, according to rumors, Meade apparently is going to make the Autostar standard, switching from EC to AT makes sense.
Subject: Question about parts dimensions; screw on adapters for ETX90EC and the electric focuser. Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 12:09:59 From: thejll@mail.dk (Peter Thejll) I have a question about electric focusers and the Meade ETX90EC. I have obtained a screw-on adapter for the rear port of the ETX90EC, which allows the use of optical parts intended for the SC telescope - such as a focal reducer which has a thread intended for a larger port than the one at the back of the ETX90. The screw-on adapter is so large however, that it blocks for the mounting of the Meade electric focuser. The screw-on adapter simply juts into the space that the focuser needs. The focuser is 3.4 cm 'deep' while the recess on the ETX, where the focus knob sits, is less than that, leaving about 11 mm of the focuser to stick out where the adapter wants to be. Electronic parts inside the housing of the focuser prevents carving a suitable chunk out of that to allow the adapter space. My question is whether anyone knows of a smaller electric focuser for the ETX90EC? The Meade company only makes the one sort, I think - the #1244. Is there another brand to choose from? If so, how big is it? Best wishes, Peter Thejll DenmarkMike here: JMI has (or had) their MotoFocus; see the Accessory Reviews - Showcase Products for info on it.
Subject: ETX 125 Manual - Mike Weasner's website - Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 10:51:54 From: frank.tomaras@cgi.com (Frank Tomaras) Just visited your site .. awesome !! I just bought a used ETX 125 but unfortunately the previous owners dog took care of whatever manual (s) came with the scope. Is there anyone who may have a ETX 125 manual in PDF or other format ?? Perhaps you already have this on your site but I was not able to find it. I have not yet figured out how to align the scope. I was able to find the "planets" but how do you key in eg: NGC4565 ?? ... I suspect the manual will be very helpful indeed. Thank you in advance. -FrankMike here: See the FAQ page for the manual. Also, check out the LX90 manual for a good description of using the Autostar, including entering object numbers.
And:
OK Thanks.
Subject: Re: Viewfinder Sent: Monday, May 26, 2003 22:52:00 From: rene34@pacbell.net (Rene Rivas) Thanks for the reply - I figured it out. The viewfinder barrel should have an aluminum threaded ring bonded to it in order to screw it into the prism assembly. My bond apparently failed and the ring was screwed into the plastic prism assembly. I just unscrewed the ring, epoxied it to the tube, then screwed the two parts back together. BTW -I used my telescope for the first time tonight, not much to see in West LA but I practiced my setup 5-6 times. Worked like a charm. Not nearly as hard as it sounded. Just takes careful reading of the instructions.
Subject: Viewfinder Sent: Friday, May 23, 2003 23:01:24 From: rene34@pacbell.net (Rene Rivas) I just received my new ETX-125EC with UHTC and is looks very nice. One question, the right angle viewfinder tube and prism assembly don't have any obvious method for attaching to each other. No threads or set screws. The two pieces just fit loosely together and the prism assembly falls off at the slightest touch. Have I missed something? Can I epoxy the two pieces together?Mike here: It has been awhile since I received my ETX-125EC (1999) but I don't recall any problems with the right-angle finderscope. The tube should have threads at the end opposite the lens; the rear right-angle should have threads inside it. If not, I'd contact the dealer to get another #825 finderscope.
Subject: Next Star Party Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 15:37:14 From: gombe@msn.com (earl gomberg) Any information on the next star party. How about another one at Botaga Springs. Earl GombergMike here: Hope to do a "call for interest" soon. It will be announced on the ETX Site.
Subject: Re: ETX 125 Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 10:18:06 From: DAdriance@engenderhealth.org (David Adriance) To: orion2k60@msn.com I bought my ETX 125 through Amazon 3 years ago and it came through without a hitch and is still working beautifully (although admittedly with the assistance of a Dr. Clay Supercharge a couple of years back - highly recommended also!). Happy viewing, D.
Subject: transit level Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 08:04:03 From: S.Sudak@Gwathmey-Siegel.com I've got a really sturdy aluminum David White flat head transit level tripod with a nice hefty 5/8-11 bolt that screws upwards directly into the base of the transit level. I periodically scan the internet and your site to see if anyone makes a 5/8-11 to ETX type interface plate assembly [alt-az or equatorial] but so far I've come up empty. I don't have the skill, knowledge or facilities at home to do my own serious metalworking, [thought I did take a metals course long ago while studying Industrial Design in college] and am reluctant to render the construction in hardwood or plexi as I don't trust the bolt holding in those materials. I did try experimenting with the metal plate that came with the ETX, and may still find a way to use it - but so far, nothing quite works. These transit level tripods are lightweight and built like tanks and virtually all transit level tripods sport the 5/8-11 bolt. I'm surprised I've found no one who has adapted them for use with the ETX [though I suppose not everyone who owns an ETX also owns a transit level]. I wonder if you have ever seen such an adaptation in your travels? Regards S.Sudak PS: By the way, I've taken a look at the Meade ETX tripod and mount. I have to say, for the amount of good design poured into the ETX concept, it is hard to believe the same folks came up with the design of that tripod connection. That looks like nothing short of a disaster waiting to happen - especially in the equatorial position. Yikes, I get the willies just thinking about it!
Subject: Handbox on Tripod Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 14:11:09 From: jistaeheli@bluewin.ch (Joerg & Irmtraud Staeheli) I am very sorry to bother you with a rather simple question and I tried to find the answer on your website.I am a very happy owner of an ETX-90EC (with Autostar Controller and Tripod) since two days and I just wonder how people are fixing the handbox on the tripod as it shows on all the Meade pictures. Thank you very much in advance. Best regards, Joerg Staeheli Basel / SwitzerlandMike here: The magic solution is.... Velcro! Put the "prickly" side on the legs and the soft side on the back of the Autostar.
Subject: Eclipse Photos Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 13:41:36 From: fishonkevin@sbcglobal.net (kevin keyes) I love your site and read all the updates. I just got done looking at your eclipse photos, do you know that if you move the up/down bar quickly enough that you get a video. Interesting. I also have a tip for your readers. As a temporary lens cap for short breaks, I use a "Grandma's Plastic Shower Cap". The type with the elastic around the opening. It slips on and off in a jiffy. Dew, frost, dust anything is kept clear, it's easier than screwing on the lens cap if your going inside for coffe. You can pick them up for a $1.00 at any Dollar Store. My cameras on loan so I couldn't send a picture. Thanks for a GREAT site, Kevin Keyes
Subject: Illinois Dark Skies Star Party Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:03:22 From: Luis.Perez@AIG.com (Perez, Luis) Just wanted to let your group know that registration for the Illinois Dark Skies Star Party is now open. Those that attended last year will be getting a registration packet via snail mail. Other should down load the registration form from the club site at http://www.sas-sky.org Sincerely, Luis Perez IDSSP Registrar
Subject: which ETX model Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 06:45:28 From: mjkutzner@earthlink.net (Michael Kutzner) Could you tell me which ETX is good for starting out with, since I never had a telescope before. With the differance of what $400 between the etx-90ec and the etx-125ec. I guess you can see more items with the 125 compare to the 90, or do you see the same things, only maybe more clearer with the 125 since it has a 5inch lens, rather than 3 inch. Thanks for your input. Regards, MikeMike here: The larger the aperture, the brighter and more detailed the objects will be. The smaller, the more portable. Look through the various articles on the User Observations page for some indications of what you can see with each of the ETX models.
Subject: Collimation Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 04:19:57 From: Jean.Harding@sainsburys.co.uk (Jean Harding) I have an ETX-125 spotting scope. " a friend " releasd the catch on the tripod and it fell overand cracked the base i glued it back together but the focus is out of columation. please help im desparate . many thanks for even replying jamesMike here: If the telescope is out of collimation, this is really something you may not want to try to correct yourself. Ideally you would have an "optical bench" to use. There are alternatives but they require a LOT of patience and you may end up with things even worse. The best bet is to contact either Meade for a repair or Dr. Clay Sherrod for his Supercharge tuneup. If you do want to try it yourself, see the collimation articles on the Telescope Tech Tips page.
Subject: ETX situation in Germany Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 03:25:57 From: Rendelius@rpgdot.com maybe this is interesting for you: The ETX models seem to sell extremely well in Europe - at the time being, the 90's and 125's are backordered for a month, the 105 even for 6-8 weeks. Meade Germany blames it on incredible demand do to the special offer with the tripod and the autostar and the eyepiece offer. Just to let you know .-) Bernhard Rems
Subject: UHTC vs. non UHTC Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 15:39:39 From: bc568@lafn.org (Lynn) Hi, I'm planning to buy the Meade ETX 125 from Amazon.com. Currently they have the ETX 125 without the UHTC for about $ 850.00. The ETX 125 with the UHTC is about $940. Is there a major difference between the two? Meads website only gives you the technical specs. Does it significantly improve the images you see? Do you think it would be well worth it to wait and get the ETX 125 with UHTC since Amazon is currently waiting for its shipment to arrive? LynnMike here: Yep, the difference is very noticeable. I've looked through an ETX-90 with UHTC and one with the standard coatings. Objects were obviously brighter with the UHTC. You can read Dr. Clay Sherrod's UHTC test report by going to the Announcements --> Meade page.
Subject: Obtaining an ETX 125 EC Power panel Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 14:59:30 From: S.Sudak@Gwathmey-Siegel.com Steve here. I bought my ETX 125EC in late December 2001. I discovered your [excellent] site at some point last year. I wonder if you can help me out with a problem that's come up. We were holding an observing session up at my Scout camp in the Adirondacks. We had lots of scopes and accessories running off a few long extension cords we ran out onto the field in front of the Dining Hall. At some point, either a cord got tugged, or my scope became unplugged, and possibly in an effort to re-plug it in [in the pitch dark], the 12V connector port became damaged. I didn't realize till days later when I had the scope home and unplugged. I switched it on, and got no power. A few hours puzzling it out revealed that the damage is infuriatingly simple. Like most 12V power connectors, this one has a leaf switch that disengages the battery power when the 12V transformer plug is inserted. That leaf switch has become deformed in such a way that when unplugged, the leaf switch stays open. A little judicious fiddling with a toothpick gets the switch closed, but it doesn't stay closed. By the way - the scope has worked flawlessly for almost a year- running exclusively off the 12v transformer. All that I have lost is convenience and mobility. The actual damaged part might cost -at best- 60 cents, but a little poking around inside the unit revealed that the 12v switch is quite integrated into the so-called "power panel* ". Now I'm no electrical engineer, [though I did build a cookbook CCD Camera] but I [probably?] know how to get a power panel out, and back into the ETX assuming its got reasonably simple connections and assuming I could get one. I called Meade and was met with a rather startlingly brief conversation. They would not sell me a power panel, in spite of the warranty being expired. "The repair is $75" - end of conversation. Now I don't mind the 75 dollar repair, [if you don't count knowing that it is to replace a 60 cent part]. What I mind most, is the idea of parting with -and shipping both ways across the country - an otherwise perfectly functioning, well collimated ETX. So tell me, what can I do to break the log jam and get a power panel. Or, please tell me I am being unreasonable [and far too risky] in thinking can do this repair myself - and just ship it off to Meade and call it a day. Thanks for anything you might be able to offer in the way of advice. Regards S. Sudak Dobbs Ferry, NY * I learned the name of the part from a letter I read on your site.Mike here: There are some user replaceable parts and some that are not. The power panel comes under the latter category (possibly for safety/legal reasons?).
And:
Indeed, in a correspondence to you, V.A. van Wulfen makes reference to Dr. Sherrod. I thought he might have been possibly the retailer to Mr van Wulfen, so I never considered contacting him myself. Now after a little internet surfing, I see who he is. I appreciate your passing my message along to him. I will await his comments. Thanks again. Regards S.SudakAnd:
From: drclay@arksky.org (P. Clay Sherrod) To: etx@me.com I will look and see if I have a spare control panel board; actually the $75 price tag is quite a bargain when you consider that they will do whatever you specify needs to be addressed when sending in the scope! They also pay return shipping.... Clay ---------- Dr. P. Clay Sherrod drclay@arksky.org Arkansas Sky Observatory Harvard/MPC H43 (Conway) Harvard/MPC H41 (Petit Jean Mountain) http://www.arksky.org/And:
Have received this message form Dr. Sherrod, and will take his sage advice under consideration. Perhaps I'll stick to tinkering with my own cookbook camera, and leave the power panel to the good folks at Meade. Thanks again. And thank you Dr. Sherrod. S.SudakAnd this:
Best of luck on all....I will look for a spare power panel (likely I do not have at this time since that is the main electronic failure on these scopes....); let me know if you decide to send into Meade....which I highly recommend. The worst part is the one-month wait for return, which can be sped up slightly if you "push" from time to time via Ma Bell..... Clay
Subject: Re: Meade Field Tripod #884 Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 04:02:17 From: nhonohan@woa.com (Noel Honohan) Thanks. But is there a way to adapt an EQ mount to the Meade tripod? NoelMike here: Probably. But you might have to make an adapter.
Subject: Hard Cases Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 22:01:19 From: BSieg2@aol.com I recently purchased an ETX-105EC to replace my ETX-90EC, which was stolen a couple of months ago. The 90 was in an extra-large hard case by Doskocil, which I bought based on recommendations I saw on your site. The Dosko was outstanding, but just barely large enough for the 90, in my opinion, and I wish they made something large enough for the 105. I have searched the web for other cases, and based on reviews from your site, have decided not to get the Meade case. When I looked at the Meade case in the dealer's shop, the case felt rather flimsy (compared to the Dosko), even though it had convenient cut-outs in the foam for the components. I'm glad I read your review page! I have tentatively decided to get a Pelican 1610 case with Pick'n'Pluck foam, which weighs over 23 pounds all by itself, but at least has wheels & a lifetime warranty. Online prices were all over the map; the best deal I found was from Case Club in Anaheim at $151 (plus $11.70 tax, since I'm in California) and $15.38 shipping, for a total of $178.08. The rep at Case Club (Raeanne Ramos) was very responsive and answered all my questions online. I also looked at cases by Underwater Kinetics, along the same lines as Pelican. I didn't do much comparison shopping, as the closest size in their line appeared to weigh a few pounds more even without foam. Are there any other good cases worth looking into before I commit this kind of money? Thanks, Barbara SiegMike here: What I know about cases is on the Accessory Reviews - Cases page.
Subject: problems with etx 125 drive Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 21:58:35 From: dingeuwen@hotmail.com (ding euwen) thanks for your great website.. helped me make the final decision to buy an etx. however, i just tried out my scope with some terrestrial viewing for a start and discovered that i've got a major problem with the scopes drive.. it works fine for the up and down motion but for the side to side it just makes the slewing noise but there is zero motion. could you help me out? i'm quite at a loss at what to do cause i'm a beginner and really scared at screwing something up with the scope.... oh and i cant send it back to meade cause i live in singapore and had it shipped over. thanks! eu-wenMike here: Does the horizontal axis lock lever move all the way to locked position without engaging the lock? If so, you can adjust the position of the lever (see the FAQ page). Let me know if that's it.
And an update (eu-wen isn't alone in making this mistake):
i wrote an e-mail to you just now about my scope's horizontal drive failur. so sorry but i just made a silly mistake.. didnt turn the horizontal lock.. anyway it seems to be working fine now.. cant wait to try it out tonight on the night sky.. thanks! eu-wen
Subject: Meade Field Tripod #884 Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 10:47:33 From: nhonohan@woa.com (Noel Honohan) I was having so much trouble with my ETX-105EC, last week when we the DEC drive began making LOUD CLUNKING sounds, out of frustration, I junked the mount and Autostar. Now, the OTA and tripod are sitting in a closet wating to be mated on what I hope could be a MANUAL EQ-3 or EQ-4. I really have no use that I', aware of for this tripod unless it can be adapted. I'm a novice, so maybe I'm wrong here. Anyway . . . Any ideas would be very much appreciated. Maybe I can still salvage some of my investment? Noel Honohan World Airways Peachtree City, GAMike here: Without attempting to troubleshoot what might be wrong with the drive (hard stop, overlocked axis lock, other), it is hard to say how you should proceed. But if you want to sell it, I will post your ad on the FOR SALE page.
Subject: ETX 125 Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 10:21:53 From: orion2k60@msn.com (RONALD OSTROMECKI) I am in the process of ordering a new ETX 125. I found that if I ordered from Amazon.com I would save about $75 over any other outlet (lower unit cost and free shipping). Are there any pitfalls in ordering from Amazon (eg old vs. new models) that would be of concern? Thanks for your response. Ron Ostromecki Wausau, WIMike here: Amazon.com is an authorized Meade dealer so there should be no problem. I've ordered many products from Amazon (but not telescopes...) and have always been pleased. Be certain you are getting the current deal (Autostar, #884 tripod). Also, don't pass up the $99 eyepiece deal from Meade.
And:
Thank You Mike. Yes the Amazon price of $850 includes both accessories - a sweetheart deal. Also they pay the shipping!! I was concerned when I read the "old vs. new" controversy on your excellent web page. That was dated 4/02 however, so I hope only "new" scopes are in the supply system. I also plan to take advantage of the outstanding deal on eyepieces. Thanks again Mike; I will stay glued to your website after I get the scope. Ron Ostromecki Wausau, WI
Subject: ETX DEC Drive Failure Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2003 14:48:51 From: manningb213@earthlink.net (Manning Butterworth) Perhaps you can help me. Thursday I took my ETX 125 out to try to photograph the lunar eclipse. The Dec motor would not run. I noticed after power was turned off that when I released the Dec lock, I heard a sound like a loaded spring unwinding. I am mystified what that might have been since there is no spring in the Dec drive unit, but it suggests that perhaps the DEC drive had attempted to operate at least briefly (but unsuccessfully). I don't know if it has any connection to the DEC drive failure, but I mention it because it involved the DEC drive lock and happened at the time of the DEC failure. Investigation since, reveals that voltage is being supplied (more about this in a minute) to the PC board connected to the DEC motor. However, the PC board is supplying zero (0) volts to the motor via the red and black wires running from the PC board to the DEC motor. If I supply the DEC motor with 3 volts, it runs fine so I believe the motor would run if it received power. Do you have any suggestions on why the PC board might be delivering zero volts output to the motor? Are there things I can check to diagnose the problem? Using a digital multi-meter, I found that the voltages at the connection points of the four wires to the DEC PC board were (assuming black to be ground): Red - (minus) 14.2 volts Yellow - (minus) 11.6 volts Blue - (minus) 9.2 volts. Is it normal (for the ETX) that the red wire would be at a negative potential relative to the black wire? This is opposite of what I expected since normally I expect red to signify a positive potential relative to black. Yes, the scope had previously worked although I had not used it for some time. To simplify the problem solving I also used the standard (non-Autostar) controller during my investigation. And, yes, the RA drive continues to operate. Finally, thank you for any information you can provide. Manning ButterworthMike here: At first as I began reading your email I thought maybe the Right Tube Adapter had failed but from your troubleshooting it sounds like either a broken wire or solder connection.
And:
You might be right about the connections, but it is not obvious to me which might be at fault. There are many and most are tiny. Thank you, Manning ButterworthAnd from our resident hardware expert:
From: drclay@arksky.org (P. Clay Sherrod) When you indicate that it "would not run" does this mean that you heard NO response whatsoever from the motor? Did you hear any indication that the motor was laboring? The sounds like a spring unwinding sound suspiciously like the small nylon reducer gears being wound up by torque in one direction, but the worm gear unable to turn. This very well could be the problem. However, if it is the problem then the resulting fact that voltage applied direct to the motor will run it....if there is binding, the motor should at least attempt to work, or load up where you can hear it. I would try to see what happens with the DEC arm cover off, and see if there is power attempting to be transferred to the worm gear; it is possible that the motor is attempting to work and you cannot hear it....but the spring unloading sound is a clear indication of severe binding in either the worm or the worm driver (main flat) gear. Dr. Clay ---------- drclay@arksky.org Arkansas Sky Observatory Harvard/MPC H43 (Conway) Harvard/MPC H41 (Petit Jean Mountain) http://www.arksky.org/And:
Thank you for the quick reply. Since I new to this site, I am not sure of the protocol for my replies. I have included Dr. Sherrod on this reply. If I am not following the correct procedure, please forgive me. The motor does not run, because there is no voltage being applied to it by the DEC PC board. The nylon gears are all in good shape. I could not tell if the motor was running when I first powered up the scope because it was slewing in RA to the first alignment star. I did notice, however, that there was no movement in DEC whatsoever. I do have the DEC arm cover off and that is how I can determine that no voltage is being sent to the motor (at any speed setting). However, the voltages do change on the yellow and blue wires coming in to the DEC PC board when the DEC slew buttons are pressed. Is there a way to check individual components to determine if they are still operational? Are there output voltages, for example, that would help isolate where the problem is? Thank you, Manning Butterworth
Subject: ASO & Griffith Obs. award..... Sent: Friday, May 16, 2003 13:49:20 From: drclay@arksky.org (P. Clay Sherrod) We are pleased that the Arkansas Sky Observatory has been awarded the Griffith Observatory Star Award for its ASO website which many of you are familiar with....thanks to all of you for your support; you can learn more about this prestigious award from ASO at: http://www.arksky.org/ Clay ---------- Dr. P. Clay Sherrod drclay@arksky.org Arkansas Sky Observatory Harvard/MPC H43 (Conway) Harvard/MPC H41 (Petit Jean Mountain) http://www.arksky.org/
Subject: ETX-90EC Broken knob Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 22:22:23 From: goof2233@yahoo.com (yadhu g) Great site. I hv used it a lot. I have an ETX-90EC and someone here over-tightened the rightside knob and it broke. Now scope wouldnt stand straight. Is this something that can be fixed by me. If not where can this be fixed. I live in san jose, ca. Thanks in advance regds YadMike here: Call Meade. They will send you a Right Tube Adapter, possibly for free. Installation is easy; see the my ETX-90EC comments at http://www.weasner.com/etx/90ec_comments.html; near the end of the page is my description and photos.
Thanks for the lighting response !! :) I'll call meade. best regds yad
Subject: quick cam Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 16:58:16 From: poweredandre@msn.com (Andre Marques) hi man how u doing? im from brasil! i want to know if u know some website that talk abou how to do a quick cam! take photos with a webcam!!! help me! or a web site that say how to tke photos with digital camera! Obrigado Abraos Andr Santos-SP Lat.2357.39S Long.4620.01 O www.astroweb.kit.netMike here: If you mean astrophotographs, check the Helpful Information - Astrophotography page for the Quickcam section.
Subject: ETXpert Tripod Plate Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 09:48:25 From: JetTek2003@aol.com Is the ETXpert tripod plate still available? I've had no luck with the provided phone number. Your assistance is appreciated. Thanks for the great site! - JetTek2003@aol.com.Mike here: All I know is what is posted.
Subject: Batteries and power supplies Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 10:58:53 From: hikerjj@hotmail.com (J Anderson) Thanks for the great site. I found some of the articles of great value. I've found some interesting things at All Electronics: 1) two 6 volt 4 amp hour batteries are cheaper than one 12 volt. www.allelectronics.com/pdf/rbat.pdf is a good place to buy them. This particular cell is actually a 4.5 amp hour and is cheap because they are made in huge quantity. 2) A good switching power supply. It puts out 12.6 volts with under .01 volt ripple and runs my DS-114 just fine, even for full dual axis slewing. It's a "new surplus" item so the price is very good, and won't be available forever. www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=search&item= PS-1215&type=store It has the usual dry location warning, but the case is not ventilated. You must change the power plug to a size "N". I got mine from Radio Shack for about $2.50/pair. 3) For dedicated scope-mount builders, here's an interesting item supposedly with a high quality axis and drive. I'm guessing that an encoder could be added to the motor shaft after removing the turns sensor and/or brake. www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=400400&item= DCM-178&type=store Apparently the turns sensor is a Hall effect device, and they are usually very fast devices, so it could possibly be converted to an adequate encoder by installing a steel gear with the correct number of teeth for an encoder. This is all speculation on my part... I haven't seen this device. Best regards, Joe Anderson
Subject: Re: Tune Up to New Scope Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 08:45:32 From: gery.j.kissel@gm.com Thanks for the feedback. Last night, the third night out with my ETX was a perfect GOTO night! I found most of my problem was in telescope leveling. I thought I had the silly thing level. But I rotated the scope 360 degrees and found it was not (level facing north, east and west, not level facing south.) I adjusted the tripod to have the scope level in 360 degrees of rotation. As for training... I used Polaris and a 12mm illuminated reticle to do my training. I can't remember which was which but one of the training values was about 250 and the other was about 570. I even took things a step further and used the reticle during the 2 star alignment. I was using my 32mm eyepiece which I think has a field of 0.8 degrees. All the targets were within 3/4 of the center of the eyepiece. That made me feel REAL good! Conclusion, this baby is tuned up! Great Site! Regards, GeryMike here: Aren't you glad you followed my recommendation to NOT make mods unless you know they are needed!!!!
Subject: Dec motor buzzing Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 04:32:27 From: dad@headplant.freeserve.co.uk (Damian Davis) I too suffer from the dreaded motor vibrations (or rather my ETX does), and I am very interested in John Welch's dampening mods. Any chance of a more detailed 'how to', or some pictures? It's really annoying when trying to split a double at high magnification, when you see a dumbell rather than black sky between two pinpricks. TIA DDAnd:
From: scopinusa@cox.net (John Welch) Hi Damian, For years I thought Mother Nature was trying to tell me something with each of those dumbells in my view! After many experiments over time, the end achievement is to reduce the dec. motor's resistance and reduce the dec. arm housing's ability to ring (transfer) the micro second pulsations of the dec. motor to it's driven gear (the white gear housed in the dec. motor housing). It's useful to remove the dec. motor housing along with the worm gear; install the autostar and run the dec. motor on speed position #2. Lightly vary the resistance of the white driven gear with your fingertips to see the dramatic effect the "micro start/stop" of the motor. This is the heavy up and down inertia of the motor that transfers through the dec. motor housing into the dec. arm and into the optical tube. You may find several ways to dampen since you're most likely more clever than I. Here are the steps that improved my scope: a) Check worm gear resistance. Remove worm assembly; turn the worm by hand. It should be perfectly free to rotate with no hint of axial play. Hold the brass shaft (not the worm teeth) with small locking pliers while adjusting the nut at the end of the worm housing. Adjust in tiny increments until free. do not allow 'play' to creep in. b) Purchase at any local hardware store, eight tiny "O" rings that barely fit onto the dec. motor housing screws. When you reinstall these screws, run a ring up to the head of each screw and on the tip of each screw after pushing the screws through the dec. housing bracket holes. Then seat the screws in their molded nut towers of the dec. arm housing. c) Use foam tape (common for sealing pickup truck to camper tops) to take up any clearance between the dec. motor housing and the dec. arm housing exterior plate. I was able to reduce the transfered vibration by allowing the plate to apply pressure through two layers of foam tape to the 'lower end' of the dec. motor housing (the open faced part of the motor housing). Cut to fit and avoid any white gear resistance. There will be more difficulty (slight) installing the dec. arm face plate. d) Work in a quiet place so you can hear the motor when testing thoughout this process. e) Remove any accessories that might add to dec. motor resistance i.e. heavy finder scopes, etc. f) As a last resort, reduce loaded volts (I finally arrived at 8.5v) at the power source to reduce actual amperage to the motor, thus reducing it's violent "micro inertia". Thanks for enduring this memo. Clear skies and no micro inertia! JohnAnd more:
From: scopinusa@cox.net (John Welch) Hey Damian, I guess something got started with the buzzy thing. An old friend (Bill) saw the mike W. info and brought his 90 over to repair. It didn't respond well to the fast and easy method I described to you yesterday. I decided the dec. motor housing just can't be rigidly attached to the fork arm housing with the two screws that transfer vibration through themselves and into their respective nut towers. a) Apply silicone adhesive generously to the two nut towers and a small amount to the inboard screw interfaces of the motor/transmission housing to form a 'flexible' bond of the trans. housing to the arm housing. Obviously take care that the adhesive doesn't reach any gears and future removal will require some exacto knife blade surgery. Locate the trans. housing to the towers by attaching the original screws but do not tighten to 'bottom'. Oh yes, lightly grease the screw shafts to lessen their adherance to the silicone. Once the silicone cures you can remove the screws or leave them installed. Just make sure they are loose to prevent transfer. I'm momentarily allowing the silicone to cure so the final result isn't in, but, if the uncured result is retained, it has reduced the vibration transfer substantially. b) Another point: It seems the worm shaft nut tightens as it runs! I found this on both scopes. Once you've adjusted the shaft, apply a small drop of thread locker to the nut and screw. Like life, it's a work in progress. John
Subject: focus damaged Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 00:54:43 From: Jean.Harding@sainsburys.co.uk (Jean Harding) last week i dropped my etx 125 and damaged the fous on it. i cannot seem to focus it properley . what can i do ? kind regards jamesMike here: Can you explain how it was dropped, that is where it might have been damaged?
Subject: re: No optical coating on ETX 125? Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 23:05:32 From: rseymour@wolfenet.com (Richard Seymour) To: exousia112@adelphia.net Dr. Clay could answer this better than i could, but since it's an open box. perhaps it's not in its original box? The UHTC scopes -look- like they're uncoated in the right light (looking into a 10"LX200gps is frightening... the corrector just "isn't there") The coatings reduce -reflections-. How well does the corrector -reflect- light? If it seems to do a poor job of it, they're probably coated.. compare with a clean chunk of window glass. (shine a laser pointer or flashlight at a 30 degee angle, make a comparative analysis of how much light bounces from the front surface and shines on the wall or ceiling. good luck ==dick
Subject: Re: Barlow lens #126 and #127 Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 22:24:39 From: homidans@hotmail.com (Saleh Homidan) Thanks for your quick reply, What is the best eyepiece to catch the new crescent for ETX90-EC?Mike here: Low power, even the supplied 26mm will do.
Subject: etx's limitation? Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 21:01:05 From: debharit@hotmail.com (debharit) do you have any idea to simply adapt etx in polar mode for observing wider sourthern hemisphere from the latitude degree of 13. the problematic point is that the ota will get stuck with the RA base itself. pls suggest. many thanks for any ideas, B. ThepparitMike here: If you have an EC model with an Autostar you can mount in Alt/Az and see the whole visible sky.
Subject: taking your etx on walkabout Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 15:24:15 From: GHENDRI@aol.com Is there a preferred (safest) orientation for carrying your ETX in a car...moped..camel...pack mule?...Yes, in a hard case I know, but parking the mirror was news to me so it made me think a little more. I have the Meade hard case. I am guessing laying flat with my brass "Supercharged" label facing the sky. I have hauled my 125 many times in the last year and hope I did'nt damage anything. I will be parking the mirror from now on. God bless our troops and Dr Clay Regards, Geoff HendricksonMike here: Personally I have never "parked" the mirror on my ETX-90; Meade does recommend using the shipping supports at the rear with the ETX-125. But in general, being flat is better than being vertical if there is a chance of dropping or bumping. if you can remove the finderscope, good, as it will likely get out of alignment anyway.
And:
Ok now I am on the fence about parking! I defer to the good Dr. Is it worth it?
Subject: Tune Up to New Scope Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 05:35:37 From: gery.j.kissel@gm.com I just purchased a 125 last month. I have had it out twice (bad weather.) The first night I was very disappointed in the goto accuracy but found the optics to be outstanding. The second time I took more time to level the tripod and scope and point it north (used Polaris centered in the eyepiece for north). I also used Polaris and an illuminated reticle (unfortunately with dead batteries) to train the drive. I used a 32mm eyepiece instead of the standard one and got much better results with the goto. Perhaps 70% success. I did notice that the more south objects were, Regulus for example, or planetary (Jupiter or Saturn) the worse the performance (out of the eyepiece in the finder). Time, date, daylight savings and location were exact. I will try again tonight with the same process and see if I get better results. Now my questions. Your site lists a number of fixes to the scope. While I do have backlash in both Alt and Az I would hope a good drive training would correct of this. I cannot detect any clutch slipping (yet.) Do you feel removing the backlash would help? That seem to be the easiest fix to do. The information on your site seems to be relevant to the old version of the ETX. How does the new design compare to the old? I have downloaded and installed the Autostar patch that allows editing of the training values and will try in the future to use the spreadsheet available to optimize the values. Do you think this will help? Last question (for now), this one regarding the Alt and Az percentages. Are these values used during a goto or only when one is doing a manual slew? I would imaging removing the backlash would really help here. Thanks in advance for your comments! GeryMike here: In general, I do not recommend making ANY mods or adjustments to ANY telescope or its GOTO system until you absolutely positively without-a-doubt know that you need to make them. After only a couple of uses I doubt that you are there yet. Get to know your telescope and its specific quirks. Then if you need to make the performance enhancements you can feel more confident that they will make a needed difference. GOTOs will normally improve with experience; remember, the better the HOME position placement and the centering of the alignment stars, the better the GOTOs will be. The same applies to training; the more accurate you center the object the better the training will be. Editing values directly may or may not make things better. Backlash is that affect that you see when changing slewing directions; again get to know your telescope first. The percentage values apply to all movements done by the Autostar. And yes, many of the tips on the Site applied to older models and are not needed/applicable to newer models.
Subject: Barlow lens #126 and #127 Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 21:34:51 From: homidans@hotmail.com (Saleh Homidan) Which is better Barlow lens for ETX90-EC Telescope, Meade #126 2X Barlow lens or Meade #127 2X-3X variable Barlow . What is the best Barlow lens in the market for a novice astronomer. Regards Saleh AlhomidanMike here: I only have experience with the #126. It works acceptably well with the ETX-90 but is a lower quality Barlow Lens than the #140.
Subject: Expanse Eyepieces Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 21:15:43 From: scopinusa@cox.net (John Welch) I found some exceptional eyepieces for ETX's. It's the "expanse" eyepieces from China (Orion, and others). The are exceptionally bright...Huge difference from plossls and Naglers. Much needed for ETX's. At the mac focal lengths, the eyepieces are flat across the field. The views are as sharp and clean as any of my orthos with a generous field of view. They're also small and lightweight. I know, it sounds like a commercial. John
Subject: Durability of the ETX-90EC Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 19:35:48 From: adrian-ion@attbi.com (Adrian Ion) Thank you for the advice on the UHTC! My new ETX-90EC recently arrived (with the UHTC option); the views of our moon have been simply spectacular! I have the following questions: How durable is the ETX-90EC, according to your experience with it? Obviously, the lenses and mirrors inside are very fragile, but a computerized telescope also has complex motors inside that could malfunction. Have you had any problems with the motors of the ETX-90EC wearing down in less than 5 or 6 years, after regular usage? What about the optics? If I dropped the telescope on concrete, I imagine that the optics might definitely be thrown out of alignment, but would they actually crack? My friend, who has been an avid amateur astronomer for several years, explained that when he accidentally knocked his 5-year old, 6-inch reflector to the ground, he found several minute cracks in the objective mirror. Is the ETX-90EC a telescope built for durability? Thank you, Adrian IonMike here: You paid for a precision instrument so you need to treat it as such. If you dropped a water glass would you be surprised if it shattered? The same applies to the optical components of any telescope. If all that happens is some small chips get broken off the edges, then you are lucky. As to wearing down with use, yes, it is possible but again with care, you should get many years of wonderment. The ETX-90EC has been around for a little over 4 years now and I don't recall any mention of components wearing out.
Subject: ETX125 & focal reducers Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 12:57:40 From: mathieu.chauveau@groupecat.com (CHAUVEAU Mathieu) I'm contemplating the purchase of an ETX125 as a second scope (after a 16" dob). However I'm a little worried by its 1900mm f.l., which is as much as the dob, and I'd like to be able to use it for wide field views. Do you know of any observers (including yourself) who used telecompressors on an ETX? I've read that they cause some light loss for photography, but how about visually? thanks in advance if you can help. Thanks also for providing all this info on your website. MattMike here: See my comments on the Shutan Wide-Field Adapter on the Accessory Reviews - Showcase Products page. Yes, extra glass will cause some reduction in overall image quality.
Subject: Dec. motor buzzing Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2003 20:30:03 From: scopinusa@cox.net (John Welch) Is there a solution for damping dec. motor buzzing that transfers to the image at all mags...ETX 90 EC Autostar. THANKS, JohnMike here: You could try some of the performance enhancement tips on the Telescope Tech Tips page.
And:
I've done em all mike, including some'inventive' dapming. The motor has a frequency, occilation, harmonic vibration that seems to defy a remedy. Just thought the actual problem might have surfaced. Thanks anyway, JohnMike here: Have you tried adding some weight or vibration suppression pads to the tripod? Do you have the tripod height fully extended? If so, reducing the height can reduce the vibrations.
And:
Yes. I also use a "custom" permanent pier. I've replaced the motor four years ago (I was the repair tech during the entire era of the Astronomy Shoppe) Meade couldn't help at the time so after many mechanical and electrical 'tricks' I left the scope in the closet. ALL ETX macs have this problem. Some are of course more noticeable than others. Some require examining a close double at high mag to see it. Just like most owners, I love the optical tube's potential (on average 3% smaller airy disk on dozens of 90mm's I tested than my old Questar). We even spend countless hours and money fooling around with a mount/drive system that is mechanically and electrically 'short' of the mark. Any other small purchase would wind up in a yard sale. Thanks for the shoulder to cry on! JohnAnd an update:
I removed a fair amount of vibration in the dec. motor by reinspecting some of the motor housing/dec.arm housing dampening that I did some time back using 3/8" foam stick tape. Also added tiny rubber 'o' rings to the "bottom and "top" of the motor housing screws. Added foam tape to the removable arm housing to add pressure to the lower end of the dec. motor bracket. Loosened (slightly) the worm nut to remove any resistance for the motor. Finally, runing the mount on 8.5v instead of 12v removed the last really objectionable high-power dec. vibration. Fairly tight doubles and Jupiter details finally do not visibly merge during the dec. motor cycles. Thanks for your patience, John
Subject: Tripod quandry Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2003 11:20:43 From: TAdam74811@aol.com I am a new ETX 125 (UHTC) owner, and have read a lot of the information on the site concerning tripods and piers. I intend to build a pier for home, but would like to buy a tripod for use away from home. Can the Meade #884 be modified and made usable for polar setup of the ETX 125, or is there any other moderately priced tripod out there that is suitable? Thanks, Tom AdamskiMike here: The mounting plate of the #884 will tilt to match a wide range of latitudes.
Subject: Follow up on previous Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 19:51:32 From: dhester@ec.rr.com (dan hester) You were absolutely right. I took my ETX 125 to the local astronomy clubs Astronomy Day Public event and it was the hit of the night! Not only were the members impressed with the scope...so were the families who came by. People marveled as it picked out their favorite objects like Saturn, Jupiter and the Moon...and I heard things from interested parents and kids like "Thats the one I like"..."let's get one of these..."I felt like a Meade salesman...telling so many people where they can get one. It was a lot of fun...with a lot of good folks..and the trusty ETX 125..,.it worked like a champ! Dan
Subject: ETX Question/Comment Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 11:42:32 From: aburkefl@comcast.net (Art Burke) Just visited your site (for the umpteenth time!) and read the lastest bitch about how many scopes "failed" from Meade. Here's my personal experience: I recently ordered an ETX-125 for my girlfriend. I went the whole route - got her the scope, deluxe field tripod, hard case, dew shield... - and I also bought the "check-'em-out" service from OPT. According to what the technician noted when we received the scope, the first scope he selected to send us "failed" the optics test. Apparently the second scope he selected was just fine. We are very happy with the resultant scope. Next question/comment - the ETX has a threaded rear cell/cap. Apparently one can either place a camera on there, or an erecting image diagonal. I have an erecting image diagonal, but it doesn't have threads. This is the first I was aware of another "specialized" diagonal. When/if we order such a diagonal from our favorite telescope vendor, do we need to specify this prism is specifically for the ETX? Will something else fit with an adapter of some sort? Thanks. Art Burke Leesburg, FLMike here: Yes, the rear port is a specific thread BUT you can get an "SCT Accessory Adapter". See the Accessory Reviews - Miscellanous page for more info on this. But Meade has an erecting prism and camera adapters for this port.
Subject: No optical coating on ETX 125? Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 08:34:38 From: exousia112@adelphia.net (David Puffer) I just purchased an ETX 125 from Retail Surplus as an open box item. There doesn't seem to be any coating on the 5" corrector lens. I called Meade about this and was told that there should be a violet hue to the lens. That is certainly true of my ETX 90 but I cannot see any color at all on the 125. The tech at Meade said that the UHT coating doesn't have any color but when he looked up the model # that's on the box, he assured me that it should have the standard coatings. Can you tell me if he was correct about the color or lack of color with UHTC? I wonder if this instrument was boxed incorrectly or if it left the factory without coated optics. David PMike here: I doubt it left the factory without the coating. My older (non-UHTC) ETX-125EC has "violet" look on the correcting lens. If it was an "open box" item, could a previous owner have "cleaned" the lens and removed the coating?
And:
Thanks for the response Mike. It's difficult to believe that anybody who would purchase a scope beyond entry level would be so dense; but I guess that anything is possibe. Anyway, an uncoated optic is useless to me so I will return it and reduce my loss to shipping. Thanks again. David P
Subject: Re: questions on compass attachment to ETX-90ra Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 08:27:13 From: jbowers1@mindspring.com (CVL) Thanks for your response. I have made up a cardboard triangle with each side the length of the tripod leg distances. By drawing a line right down the center, which should also be the exact center of the ETX, I can lay the compass right on the line, compensate for magnetic deviation and mark the ends of the triangle. Then, the leg ends can be placed right on the marks. Should be quite accurate, but haven't yet tested it due to bad weather. If successful, I'll let you know as it will be another way to get close polar alignment without seeing Polaris. Of course, it won't beat the drift method but should be a very close normal alignment and easy to repeat each time. Thanks, John
Subject: Adam Briscoe's ETX90 'scratches'...... Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 04:17:56 From: vampirelestatsoulreaver@msn.com (Vampire Le Stat) I have used 'Starry Nights' to set up the conditions for 9pm, 8th May 2003 in Washington DC and can confirm that Jupiter was in position directly below the moon, so was the likely culprit. Planetary discovery by accident! VampAnd:
From: rseymour@wolfenet.com (Richard Seymour) To: briscoe@fas.harvard.edu I saw your note on Mike's site... Yes, that was most likely Jupiter and its moons... look up tonight, and you'll see that our moon has moved eastward, but Jupiter is still about where you were looking at it. Now use your telescope again... "dollars to doughnuts", the 4 moons have moved. Most likely quite a bit... In fact, if you just keep watching them over the course of a couple of hours, you'll see them shifting slightly with relationship to each other. You're seeing what are called the 4 "Galilean Moons"... the same ones Galileo saw with his first telescope in the early 1600's, and which convinced him that the Universe didn't rotate around the earth, since here were 4 bodies "obviously" spending their lives moving around Jupiter. Watch them over an evening, and over a month (you can even do this on mostly-cloudy night, since Jupiter's bright enough to find through light haze, and, with an Autostar, the ETX90 can point to pretty close to where Jupiter will be, once that hole in the clouds blows over ther). (Seattle was -made- for automatic telescopes, or vice-versa) The innermost moon, Io, goes around huge Jupiter every two days. Next out is Europa, roughly every 4 days, Then Ganymede, 7 days, and finally Callisto, 17 days. Sometimes you'll only see two or three... as they're hidden by Jupiter's bulk, or eclipsed by its shadow. If your skies are steady, you may see a intense black dot on Jupiter's face... that's a moon's shadow crossing it... IF you pick up a copy of Sky& Telescope, there's a monthly chart of the dance of Jupiter's moons, as a column of curves running down the edge of the page. Squint hard, and you'll the litte gaps showing the eclipsed portions. My wife (and many others) prefers Saturn (also up these evenings, westward of Jupiter by 2 or 3 fist-widths at arm's length, just point the scope at whatever bright objects you can see, and one will be big and oval, or, depending upon your local sky conditions, it'll have distinct rings) Myself? I can stare at Jupiter's moons for hours... they are all on one plane, like peas on a plate, and we're seeing that truly edge-on these days (it doesn't tilt -much-, at worst), but it's particularly well arranged these days for the moons to eclipse themselves-- one moon's shadow will cause another moon to disappear for a few minutes. You're watching bodies millions of miles away, a planet far huger than Earth, moons with orbits larger than our moon's, and they're -visibly- moving. On a scale appreciable to someone with only a few minutes to spare to look up and -watch-. Welcome to astronomy... I work with physicists... i'm (unfortunately) not surprised he thought it was "a reflection".. (too much looking down, not enough looking up) . Next time you see them, just casually ask: "what can you tell me about Galileo?" have fun --dick
Subject: Re: Mercury transit Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 03:21:53 From: geheniau@xs4all.nl Go to www.xs4all.nl/~geheniau and then to astronomy. I have added a new page (Downloads) and there you can download the transit. Also other nice stuff. Maybe handy to tell more people. Thanks Job Geheniau The Netherlands
Subject: rayovac 3 in 1 LED Head Lite Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 02:39:35 From: GHENDRI@aol.com I just found a cool item at Loews that seems right up our alley...Its a head mounted light from Rayovac. It has a single white LED bulb and a duel red LED and a normal long range bulb. The red LED's are just the ticket for late night scope set up. One problem is the switching as the white LED is first to come on with the 3 position switch. The red ones come on second so it is advisable to close your eyes before turning it on. I have also upgraded to the newest Starry Night Pro 4.0 and it is very different. With this version you can make a photo mosaic of your yard and see the sky as if you were really standing out in the backyard. Keep up the great work. Just for the record you are going to have to pry my ETX125 from my cold dead hands! One question. I have been looking at the SAC pics and am wondering what the current draw is on the Peltier cooled types. I often head into the bowels of the Pine Barrens of NJ by canoe and spend the weekend with my scope I have a 17amp hr portable power source. Can I power that eyepiece a few hours a night like that? God Bless our troops and Dr Clay!!! Geoff HendricksonMike here: I suspect you should be able to power your telescope for some time but keep in mind that the SAC gets its power from the computer via the USB connection.
Subject: Mirror parking Sent: Friday, May 9, 2003 18:20:38 From: marv.sumner@juno.com (Marvin C. Sumner) Mike & Dr. Clay, I understand that it's a good idea to use the focus knob to park the main mirror all the way back against the rear of the OTA when shipping a 'scope, or any time extra vibration is likely. Question: Which direction of knob rotation moves the mirror to the rear? CW? CCW? Is it the same direction for all ETX and other Meade products? (I have also an LX-200/GPS) Marv SumnerAnd:
From: drclay@arksky.org (P. Clay Sherrod) Turn the knob clockwise until you feel resistance...warning; do NOT pull too tightly or you will most certainly disengage the mirror from the pin and rod. Clay ---------- Dr. P. Clay Sherrod drclay@arksky.org Arkansas Sky Observatory Harvard/MPC H43 (Conway) Harvard/MPC H41 (Petit Jean Mountain) http://www.arksky.org/
Subject: Council for the Protection of Rural England - Night Blight! Campaign Sent: Friday, May 9, 2003 13:14:56 From: vampirelestatsoulreaver@msn.com (Vampire Le Stat) Just drawing your (and your sites readers) attention to a campaign launched today by the Council for the Protection of Rural England. To launch its new Night Blight! campaign, CPRE obtained data from US Air Force weather satellites. This data has been used to make striking national and regional colour maps showing people how the starry night sky is disappearing in their own community, and how countryside with truly dark skies is shrinking fast. Scientists have estimated that more than half the UK population will never see the Milky Way - our own galaxy - in the night sky around their homes because electric light is blotting it out. Of the 12 constellations featured in horoscopes, five have become entirely invisible in the most light-polluted skies - and the seven remaining ones are all missing some stars. Information about the campaign (including VERY useful pollution maps of the UK) can be found at: www.cpre.org.uk/new-design-tree/campaigns/landscape/night-blight/index.htm Details of the launch can be found at: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/sci/tech/3012463.stm Many Thanks, Vamp
Subject: Scratches in the glass lens ETX-90
Sent: Friday, May 9, 2003 06:38:54
From: briscoe@fas.harvard.edu (Adam Briscoe)
After reading a great deal of the comments on your web page I decided to
buy the ETX-90 with Auto Star and tripod. I live in Washington DC and
haven't had a clear enough sky to set up the Autostar. But last night it
was clear enough to see the moon and it looked amazing through the ETX.
The one issue that I've had, and I'm hoping that you can advise me on,
is that I noticed a bright object directly below the moon last night,
(May 8), and when I pointed the telescope at the object, it appeared to
be a planet, but there where four tiny light dots in perfect alignment
(three to the right and one to the left) around what seemed to be a
planet. There happen to be a physicist here with me who commented that
is could be some sort of light reflection or something. So I took a
flashlight to the front of the telescope and found that around the
mirrored circle in the front glass lens, there seemed to be two distinct
scratch marks etched into the the interior side of the glass lens! One
is about 1/8 of and inch, and the other about 1/4 of an inch! Is this
going to effect the telescope?? Should I be concerned? I plan on
contacting Meade but I wanted your opinion first. This is my first
telescope since I was little kid and I want it to work perfectly.
Thanks for your assistance,
Adam Briscoe
Mike here: From your description of the "object" it sounds like you were observing the planet Jupiter and its four brightest moons. Using a flashlight to illuminate the optical surfaces will show all sorts of "bad things" and is not a way to determine the state of the surfaces. I'm not saying that you are not seeing real scratches but they may also NOT be scratches. If you can not see the "scratches" under ambient light then they may not be a problem.
And:
Thanks for the help! Just one last thing....the four lights around Jupiter seemed to be in an almost perfect line. Do these moons have the same orbit? Thanks again for your help! Adam BriscoeMike here: Not exactly the same orbit, just in similar orbital planes.
Subject: Sidereal rate motor noise Sent: Thursday, May 8, 2003 20:53:33 From: mlewicki@ozemail.com.au (Martin Lewicki) When I first got my ETX-90EC in June last year (and missing the birthday eyepiece deal- sob) I noticed that when it runs at sidereal rate you can hear the motor noise - sounding like a periodic grinding sound. Took it back to the shop. They tried another scope with the same noise. Is this normal for this scope? Otherwise the scope tracks fine though I do notice that the vibration slightly deteriorates the image quality at high powers like 100x. Martin LewickiMike here: Well, some sound is normal and in Alt/Az mode you will hear both motors running. But the image should not vibrate from the drives. Mount stability has a lot of due with dampening out these vibrations. If you are using a tripod, try lowering the leg extensions to reduce the height of the tripod. Also, placing the tripod on a soft surface (I use a small carpet; also helps if an eyepiece is dropped!). You can also buy (or make) vibration suppression pads that go under each tripod leg. Or you can add weight to the tripod. Some people have even put sand into the tripod legs to increase their rigidity.
Subject: Telescope Clinic Sent: Thursday, May 8, 2003 15:07:06 From: dhester@ec.rr.com (dan hester) I just got news of a Public Telescope Clinic being put on this weekend at a local school by the Wilmington Astronomical Society. I e mailed the group, since it was the first time I had heard they existed, and they invited me to come and "bring a Scope". Maybe this sounds silly, but do I need to be embarrased about bringing my ETX 125? I read somewhere that LX200'S weren't welcome at these events because they make so much noise. Is the scope considered a "toy" by these groups. Thanks, DanMike here: If they look down on ANY telescope then the problem is theirs not yours. Any worthwhile group should accept amateurs with ANY telescope. Let me know how it goes.
Subject: I got a great deal Sent: Wednesday, May 7, 2003 19:41:12 From: maglib@optonline.net (Barbara Magliozzi) I love your site. My son is very much wanting to learn astronomy and has been asking for a telescope for years but, I couldn't afford one. Miraculously, I was in Macy's and found on clearance a Meade ETX-70AT with bonus tripod and carry bag for only $84. A bit of a stretch for us but, from what I see, I got a great deal. I would like to try to find some great web sites for the beginning astronomer and I did find yours but, I think it may be too advanced for my 9 year old. He has been going to NASA.com for over 2 years now. Can you recomend any other great sites for his age? I want to support his goals as much as I can. There are so many sites when I searched and I don't have enough knowledge to pick and choose for him. I don't allow him access to the web except for preapproved sites that I have set up for him. Thank you so much. B. MagliozziMike here: I started at age 6. There were no web sites back then (and the few computers in the world filled rooms...) but I did have a brother who got me going! So, a good teacher is still the best! But you might check into astronomy.com and skyandtelescope.com. Both are associated with the popular magazines of the same names and have excellent resources for all levels of amateur astronomers.
Subject: Lens Cleaning Sent: Tuesday, May 6, 2003 21:30:58 From: KlaraColli@aol.com The lens on my ETX-125 UHTC is getting dirty. I have never touched it for fear of damaging the UHTC. Eventually it will need to be cleaned to maintain image quality. Is there a procedure for this?Mike here: See the Cleaning Tips article on the Buyer/New User Tips page. Use extra caution with the UHTC.
Subject: eyepieces Sent: Monday, May 5, 2003 14:07:24 From: hunterk@m.ogden.k12.ut.us (Kit Hunter) I just ordered three new eyepieces for my etx90, I got the Plossl and not the super plossl, is there a big difference? kitnatalie@hotmail.comMike here: "Big difference"? Not so you'd probably notice on the ETX-90. "Difference"? Yes but don't lose sleep over it. Depending on the manufacturer, there can be only minor differences, but larger differences manufacturer to manufacturer.
Subject: questions on compass attachment to ETX-90ra Sent: Monday, May 5, 2003 09:06:46 From: jbowers1@mindspring.com (CVL) Well, I have a few quick questions for you. For weeks, I've been trying to use the ETX-90RA basically without an accurate polar alignment because I can't see Polaris. I can still take some decent shots at fairly low power (as evidenced by the Jupiter/sun pics I sent you), but high power, better images are scratching at my head! So, I'd like to try a magnetic compass alignment. I think I know how to proceed from the wonderful instructions both on your site and Meade's, but just where do I attach the compass on the 90ra? Everything I'm reading suggests the wedge base, but using the 3 screw-in legs leaves no wedge base except the table top. So, I'm guessing on the base of the 90 itself and magnetic adjustments are made before I attach the latitude leg. If this is correct, what is the best way to line up the N of the compass with the tube? I can eyeball it, but will that be accurate enough? Thanks, JohnMike here: Just sit the compass off to the side of the North leg. Then eyeball the pointing to be parallel to where True North is located after correcting for your local Magnetic Variation. Most small compass dials won't show you the accuracy you'd want so eyeballing should be OK. For best results, use the "drift method" of polar alignment.
Subject: The scopes are all right.
Sent: Saturday, May 3, 2003 17:10:03
From: dcanard@cswnet.com (doug canard)
My ETX RA is doing fine,so far.
I just received the June,2003 issue of Sky & Telescope.Coronado has an
ad for new eyepieces{including a 2X Barlow}-" low index Plossl eyepieces
fully optimized at H-alpha",according to the script-that caught my
attention.It's all on page 65. They are supposed to enhance the contrast
compared to a normal eyepiece.The photos sure look nice.I've never heard
of this before.Have you?
Regards
Mike here: Just got mine too but haven't opened it up yet. Since H-alpha is the source of the "redness" you see in some photos of DSOs, it could help those I guess.
Subject: New address
Sent: Friday, May 2, 2003 03:57:34
From: drclay@arksky.org (P. Clay Sherrod)
As an update to all, I am posting my new address at the residence for
ASO on Petit Jean Mountain. From here forward, all telescopes for
Supercharge (see
http://www.weasner.com/etx/techtips/tuneup_service.html for full
details here on the Mighty ETX site....) AND correspondence should be
sent to:
Dr. P. Clay Sherrod
Arkansas Sky Observatory
41 Pines Circle, Petit Jean Mt.
Morrilton, AR 72110
My e-mail address and website addresses (below) will remain unchanged.
The observatory is completed now on Petit Jean and we look forward to
hosting a major Astro-Symposium very soon here on the mountain.
Clay
----------
Dr. P. Clay Sherrod
drclay@arksky.org
Arkansas Sky Observatory
Harvard/MPC H43 (Conway)
Harvard/MPC H41 (Petit Jean Mountain)
http://www.arksky.org/
Subject: ETX Rules of Thumb Sent: Thursday, May 1, 2003 09:15:12 From: kevin.berg@mci.com (Berg, Kevin M.) It's been a while since I've written, and just wanted to suggest that after reading the following excerpt from one of your responses to another reader's question... Anytime the Autostar acts up, doing a TRAIN is a troubleshooting step that can clear up the problem. If that doesn't help, do a CALIBRATE and TRAIN. And if that doesn't clear any problems, then a RESET, CALIBRATE, TRAIN can usually resolve it. One time that you do need to TRAIN is after updating the Autostar ROM. Otherwise you'll get the odd "rubberbanding" behavior, where the Autostar attempts to re-center an object after you center the object following a GOTO. ...perhaps it would be helpful to newbies (and even us "veterans") to have a "ETX Rules of Thumb" link on your website? This might make it easier for readers to quickly access responses to ETX "functional" questions repeatedly asked of you, so you could refer them to this section instead of typing the same response each time. You could also add tidbits such as "NEVER do this..." or "Always do this...", or somewhere in between like "It's a good idea to do/not do this...". I realize you could get carried away in deciding what to add to this section, but I'm really only referring to those questions you get asked most by readers. Just an idea, KevinMike here: Thanks. That's one of the reasons I did the FAQ page. Now I just need to find the time to do as you suggest!
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