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Last updated: 31 January 2007 |
Welcome to the AutoStar feedback page. This page is intended to provide user comments on using the Meade Autostar #494, #495, #497, cables, and the AutoStar updater software. See the AutoStar Info page for information from Meade and other users on the AutoStar, cables, and software. Send your comments and tips to etx@me.com. Remember, tips described on this site may invalidate the warranties on your ETX and accessories. Neither the submitter nor myself are responsible for any damage caused by using any contributed tips.
Subject: 505 cable Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 04:46:21 From: john iannelli (john_i47@yahoo.com) I have had the LXD55 sc-8 scope for 3 years now. I have not upgraded the autostar since i purchased the scope. Where can i get the latest upgrade and can i still use the #505 serial cable. Are there any bugs that i should be looking for in the upgrade. ThanksMike here: The upgrade is available from Meade's Autostar page (http://www.meade.com/support/auto.html). Get both the AutoStar Update application (version 4.6) and the AutoStar update (4.3Ed). The serial cable should be fine as long as you have a RS-232 serial port on your computer. If you have only USB see the article "AutoStar and USB" on the Helpful Information: AutoStar Info page on the ETX Site. If you use Mac OS X get "AutostarX" (same page); if you use Linux get "Lin_Autostar" (same page). No reason to not upgrade and many reasons to upgrade.
Subject: upgrade 497 Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 06:08:46 From: Henrik VAN HOLTHOON (henrik.van.holthoon@wanadoo.fr) I did the upgrade to 43Ed (497) not direct but via the hard disk I think this is a safer procedure. But I am surprised that you say it takes only 20 minutes to upgrade, my upgrade took about 50 minutes so how is it possible you do it so much faster? I have not found you can set the baud rate faster if you can set anyhow, anywhere etc. By the way I direct upgrade takes also about 50 minutes. Have fun HenrikMike here: When I do the upgrade from Mac OS X (using AutostarX) it takes about 26 minutes via my USB-serial adapter.
And:
From: richard seymour (rseymour@wolfenet.com) That is how i update, too. Meade->disk, disk->Autostar. However, even "online" the ASU first copies the file to your disk and -then- does the update, so it's moot. > But I am surprised that you say it takes only 20 minutes to upgrade, my > upgrade took about 50 minutes so how is it possible you do it so much > faster? Two answers: (a) i suspect you had "Verify" chosen. That more than doubles the time, since first it writes to the Autostar, and then it reads it back. Without verify the time should be in the 20 to 30 minute range. **note: i have -not- used the newest (4.6) Updater on a 497. Meade may have changed something (such as making "Verify" the default). (b) I use StarPatch from www.stargps.ca to perform my updates. It is much more "robust" about maintaining a good connection to the Autostar than Meade's Updater. It is also faster. In its "free" mode, it fills half of the Autostar in -one- minute. Then it drops to "Meade speed" and finishes the update in 9 more minutes. (if you register/pay your copy, then the -entire- update takes 2 minutes). ...and those timings are -with- checksummed verification of the upload. > I have not found you can set the baud rate faster if you can set anyhow, > anywhere etc. Depending upon your PC's serial port's capabilities, StarPatch can operate at 115kbaud with a 497. With an LX200gps it may go faster. If you have two 497's, and the proper "cloning" cable, they can directly cross-update (Clone) themselves... that takes 8 minutes or less. > By the way I direct upgrade takes also about 50 minutes. In the days of "dial-up" modems, the on-line update took another 20-odd minutes just for the Meade->you download. have fun --dick
And an update:
Hi Dick, Thanks for your response. I checked ASU and you are right verify is on in my version ASU 4.6 as default as you correctly assumed. But I decided to leave it on, better safe then sorry, even if the upgrade takes longer. I use also BlueStar Bluetooth connection that might be also a delaying factor. As I do not have a laptop with a serial connection I can not use the 505 serial cable. Not clear to me was you remark it's moot, must be an American expression but I think you mean it makes no difference. Regards Henrik
And:
That was its intended meaning.
I thought it was old Engligh, but see below...
The definitions listed here:
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/moot
cover moot fairly well ("render it moot").
The "usage note" on that page describes the drift of the meaning
towards my specific usage, and is from the American Heritage
dictionary, so my usage may well be an American peculiarity.
have fun (with words, too)
--dick
And more:
But now that i'm in my library with my hard-copy OED, i see that a "close enough" version of the usage is cited from 1577, which clearly predates most European settlement of the American continent. "Moot" as "arguable" has a reference from 1000. have fun --dick OED: Oxford English Dictionary
Subject: ASU - translate
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 00:14:44
From: Marco {Stojnci} (s52sk@yahoo.com)
I just came random on your web page and it is nice, manny usable
information. So i owe also Meade AR6 telescope on lxd55mount. My
computer can great communicate with teloescope, but I have question. I
am also wrote to meade but no answer until 2day.
Can someone tell me if is possible to translate for example english
version of rom data to Slovene language? I hava try everything with all
possible programs and when I upload Rom file to Autostar report
failure???
I would like to translate only hot keys, aligning etc.. all other
database bill stay same
Please help
Regards Marko Vidovic from Slovenia - Europe
Marko Vidovic
www.kasiopeja.com
Mike here: There are different language versions of the AutoStar ROM available from Meade's various international web sites. If your language is not available you could manually edit the text in the ROM file before uploading it to the AutoStar. As long as you don't change the length of the file you might be OK. I've never tried this so I'll let our resident AutoStar expert, Dick Seymour, confirm it is safe to do.
And:
From: richard seymour (rseymour@wolfenet.com) Mike Weasner wrote: > There are different language versions of the AutoStar ROM available > from Meade's various international web sites. If your language is not > available you could manually edit the text in the ROM file before > uploading it to the AutoStar. As long as you don't change the length > of the file you might be OK. I've never tried this so I'll let our > resident AutoStar expert, Dick Seymour, confirm it is safe to do. It is not -quite- that simple... the Meade ROM file has a "checksum" at the beginning... any changes you make have to affect that sum, too. As Mike wrote, the message -lengths- must remain unchanged (they can be shorter if you fill the field with spaces). You can recalculate the checksum: The checksum is a "simple sum" of the entire ROM file, -except- for the first 4096 bytes. Then the checksum is stored in "Intel-order" (least significant byte at lowest address) in the 4th through 7th byte in the ROM file. If that checksum is not correct, the Meade Updater will say that the file is corrupted. I'd be happy to help, and i can recalculate the checksum if you send me the modified ROM file (plus zip it!). good luck --dick
Subject: Updating Autostar Software Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 11:20:47 From: Dan Mitchell (danmitchell6111@yahoo.com) I have an ETX-60 with what I think is a #494 Autostar controller. I was given this telescope back in 2000 and I've only just begun to seriously use it. So it is practically brand new despite its age. My work has required me to move to remote locations quite frequently and the telescope was never able to come along. But now I am finally sedentary and I have a pretty decent view of the night sky. My questions are: Do I need to update the Autostar software since it is seven years old? AND If so, how do I do that? I do have the cable that is used to connect the telescope to a PC. Thanks, DanMike here: Meade has not made any user-installable update for the #494 AutoStar available. Generally speaking, your AutoStar will still GOTO objects OK. If you do want to be able to update your AutoStar, get a #497 AutoStar. You would then also need a #505 serial cable (easily made; see the Helpful Information: AutoStar Info page).
Subject: ETX upgrade Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 10:09:46 From: arno.becker@astro-schnack.de (arno.becker@astro-schnack.de) sorry to bother you again. (BTW: is there any mailing-list or how do you all communicate ?) When reading the Setup-statictic i found the Version 26 gc looking here http://www.meade.com/support/auto.html i see that obviously the actual version already at "Autostar model #497 version 43Ed (479 KB) is available" (does that fit my memory ? statistics says only 37K free) does the "Autostar Update (ASU) Client Application for Windows, Version 4.6 (1,654 KB)" do the transfer via RS232 from PC to Autostar ? (me no cable have ;);) anything to consider when upgrading ? i read the various hints but no one refers to upgrade from 2x to 4x version. would be nice to hear something from you. take your time, i am not in hurry best regards and a nice weekend Arno
From: Richard Seymour (rseymour@wolfenet.com) Yes, it fits... it replaces all of the existing firmware and fixed-object data in the Autostar. The "37k" is what it free in the 63KB area reserved for User Objects (satellites, comets, asteroids, Tours). >does the "Autostar Update (ASU) Client Application for Windows, Version 4.6 (1,654 KB)" >do the transfer via RS232 from PC to Autostar ? Yes. >(me no cable have ;);) You can cable build. http://www.weasner.com/etx/autostar/as_cable505.html >anything to consider when upgrading ? i read >the various hints but no one refers to upgrade >from 2x to 4x version. First FAQ: yes, you can upgrade directly to 43Ed from your current version. No need to take intermediate steps. >would be nice to hear something from you. >take your time, i am not in hurry Good thing: the upgrade takes about 20 minutes. -after- you get/build a cable. have fun --dickMike here: There is an ETX forum on the Yahoo Groups.
Subject: ETX-90EC Autostar Alignment Failure Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 08:25:33 From: Kenneth J Goodnow (goodnowk@us.ibm.com) I love your site. I bought a ETX 90EC (slightly used) about 3 years ago. It works well as a telescope, however, I have never been able to get the Autostar to work correctly. I used the web pages that talked about how to clean up all of the problems. I followed this guideline. I cleaned everything, greased appropriately, updated the software. This was two years ago. After doing all the work, I went through all of the setup problems and took it out for a spin. The first alignment did not work. The second alignment worked. The first object viewing was right on. The second was not in the viewer. I tried aligning a third time. Did not work. Took the scope out about three more times, never aligned. So the scope sat there all last year, I was too frustrated to deal with it. It's getting to be time to go outside again. (I live in Vermont.) So I was thinking of trying to get going again on this hobby. So my question is what should I do. Any suggestions. Thanks, Ken GoodnowMike here: Since you weren't specific in the steps you have followed I will make some recommendations. CALIBRATE MOTOR, TRAIN DRIVES, and read the Alignment Tips on the Helpful Information: AutoStar Info page. Also, you didn't say what version of the AutoStar software your AutoStar has but if not the latest you might want to consider updating it.
Subject: Problem with 43Ed? Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 16:29:45 From: radowningii (radowningii@comcast.net) Have put 43Ed on my 497, & have tried the <reset><calibrate><train_drives> a number of times. The drive training 'fails' during the RA/declination training... The object is centered, <Enter> is pushed, & the drive *sometimes* slews (the other case is that it doesn't, but you're still prompted to re-center the object), but then the left-right buttons don't work... If I just go directly to manual control, all appears to work correctly (all buttons move the axes). Any reports against 43Ed? Thanks, RobMike here: Haven't received any problem reports. Could you be overtightening the axis lock? Have you tried a RESET and then a CALIBRATE MOTOR and TRAIN DRIVES? Have you tried reloading the ROM? If all the above fails, you can roll back to the previous version (in the Archive on the Helpful Information: AutoStar Info page).
And:
Thanks for the reply. I *don't* think I could have been over-tightening, under the theory it just wouldn't move at all, but... The only thing I haven't really done is reload. I guess I'll try that, although I didn't see any error indications. Thanks, Rob
Subject: re: ETX 497 Autostar freezes Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 21:08:44 From: richard seymour (rseymour@wolfenet.com) > the screen glows red as usual, and the buttons are lit, That's a key clue... if you try letting the Autostar sit unmolested indoors for more than ten minutes, you'll see it go into "power saving" mode... -part- of which are all of the LEDs (screen and keys) going dark. So i think your Autostar is just being bothered by the cold (moisture can also do this...was dew forming on everything? Dew inside the autostar can appear to it as all (or at least "many") keys being pressed. The trick is to keep the Autostar warmer. Don't let it just sit out "seeing the sky" (and trying to radiate all of its warmth to deep space). Put it -under- something, or (as i do) inside a mitten. Keeping it warmer will keep it happier. have fun --dickMike here: Good point about dew. Where I've used it at low temps (Arizona desert) dew hasn't been a problem.
And:
From: Carleton Gotlieb (gotliebc@msn.com) I'm sure cold is to blame, possibly in combination with a small dose of dewing as the air rapidly cools, causing a short. I discovered the difference last night between a good power-saving condition (Autostar completely dark, then wide awake at the touch of any button) and a bad one (lit up but non-functional). Thanks for the responses and the mitten idea. I will try that.
Subject: re: Autostar #494 serial to USB cable modification question Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 21:03:37 From: richard seymour (rseymour@wolfenet.com) Mike correctly wrote: > The problem is converting from the RS-232 serial protocol to the > USB protocol. Just wiring it up doesn't change the protocol. I tend to view "protocol" as the patterns in the information. What will really bite you if you were to try directly wiring the DB-9 to a USB socket would be the voltages... The USB and DB-9 (rs232) signals also differ wildly in voltages. The USB is a unipolar (only goes positive) low (+5v max) voltage system. Typically the signal levels are only 3.6v. The rs232 levels are bipolar (goes both positive -and- negative relative to ground) much higher (12v or more, 25v and 50v are "legal") voltages. If you plug an rs232 source into a USB compatible port, you stand a very good chance of severely damaging the USB drivers and receivers. have fun --dick
Subject: Autostar #494 serial to USB cable modification question Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 09:11:22 From: Doc @ I40 Auto (i40autoinc@coxinet.net) I recently came into possesion of a Meade Ds-2080at with the #494 Autostar. I also have a laptop with no 9 pin serial port just USB's. I have been reading with interest all the ways people have built cables to plug their Autostar into a laptop equipped with only USB ports. My question is, why is the DB-9 to USB adapter needed? Since only three lines are being used from the autostar to the db9 and USB only has 4 wires (1 +5v, 2 data (+,-) and 1 ground) would it not make better sense to just splice a USB male connector to the Autostar cable instead of running it through an adapter? This way it seems only the ground and the data lines will be used (connections 2,3,4 in the USB plug), same set up as the db9 mod. The USB +5v can be ignored unless someone figures out a way to use it to power up the autostar. Or does the DB9 to USB adapter have other circuitry in it to convert the serial signal to USB? Thanks for considering this question. Clear Skies Forever Bill King Del City, OklahomaMike here: The problem is converting from the RS-232 serial protocol to the USB protocol. Just wiring it up doesn't change the protocol.
And:
Ah so. Makes sense, Thanks for the quick reply. I forgot about the protocols I thought the drivers handled that.
Subject: Hi Mike Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 06:02:23 From: John Courtney ((N)) (John.N.Courtney@PWGSC.GC.CA) I upgrade to 4.2g. What the hell are they doing. It does not name the guide star and it ignores the mount limits. I want to go back to about 3.6.1. I understand that you may have the old updates. Can you tell me which one is the best to use and the URL. I have a 16" LX200 GPS Thanks John CourtneyMike here: I have the older AutoStar #497 updates on my ETX Site (on the Helpful Information: AutoStar Info page) but I don't archive AutoStar II updates (for the LX200 GPS). If by "guide star" you mean the alignment star names, there is a setting for Brightest Star in the AutoStar Utility menu (for the #497 AutoStar).
Subject: ETX 497 Autostar freezes Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 21:21:47 From: Carleton Gotlieb (gotliebc@msn.com) Occasionally, and usually on a cold Phoenix night (like around 40 degrees F), my hand controller freezes up. That is, the screen glows red as usual, and the buttons are lit, but nothing shows on the screen (completely blank), and none of the buttons work. This happens most often when I go in the house for awhile (leaving the scope continuing to track), but it also happened the other night during my observations. The motor is still running and tracking the object in the eyepiece. But to use the autostar, I have to turn off the power and start over. Any ideas why this happens? I know most folks live in colder areas but I've never heard of this before. Thanks! Carl GotliebMike here: I've used my AutoStars down into the 30s without problems. There is a power saving mode that turns off the display after several minutes without any key presses. Pressing any number key should get the display back. Have you tried using the MODE key to wake it up?
And:
None of the buttons wakes it up, and I did hold the MODE button for about 3 seconds and that didn't work either. Based on your response, it sounds like this power-saving mode, if that's what it is, isn't working right. I will see what happens on warmer nights as we get into the spring.Mike here: Try the test indoors.
Subject: RE: Replacement hand controller for Meade ETX 105 Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 23:22:01 From: Carter, Lynne (Lynne.Carter@capita.co.uk) Thanks for the advice, Telescope House had them even though they were not on the posted catalogue and one is on its way to me. Cheers, Lynne Carter.
Subject: Re: ETX direct programming Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 10:34:22 From: JC Havaux Out of Office (jc_havaux@yahoo.com) Thanks I will browse in it. Very complete site. congratulations. bye
Subject: Re: ETX 90 question! Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 19:06:19 From: richard seymour (rseymour@wolfenet.com) >> My personal question consist on controlling this ETX 90 device trough >> a personal computer. I got this device with the only purpose of >> moving this motor either up and down or left to the right, and I do >> not have the telescope itself. Therefore are many instructions that I >> can not controll (I guess). For the second I found out that many >> functions does not work at all. I have one manual of an lx-200 but >> only few commands works. Up to now Im able to move upward, downward >> and sidewards, with four differents speeds... (:RG#, RC#, :RM#, >> :RS#) where Rs goes up to a speed of 1200x. with RM unfortunately i >> dont know the speed... The current published Meade document is: http://www.meade.com/support/LX200CommandSet.pdf The current firmware accepts :R1# :R2# :R3# :R4# :R5# :R6# :R7# :R8# and :R9# which are the equivalents to tapping those keys on the keypad. Thus 1x, 2x, 8x, 16x, 64x , 0.25 deg/sec,, 0.5 deg/sec, 1.5 deg/sec and "Max" >> The second question if you know how can I control the device to move >> only a certain distance. I dont see direclty the commands that can >> help me with that. You would use the :Sa and :Sz commands (set Azimuth and Altitude), and then the :MA# command, which will cause the Autostar to Go there. You can use the :Ga# and :Gz# commands to determine the current location, and then add the displacement you wish and issue the appropriate Sa and Sz commands. have fun --dick
And:
Whoops... i forgot to answer this part: >> with four differents speeds... (:RG#, RC#, :RM#, >> :RS#) where Rs goes up to a speed of 1200x. with RM unfortunately i >> dont know the speed... RG is "Guide speed", which is 66% of sidereal, therefore 10 arcseconds per clock second. RS is the maximum speed, equivalent to speed 9 on the keypad. Usually a little faster than 8 degrees per second. RC is equivalent to speed 5 on the keypad, 64x sidereal. (or about 64*15=960 s/s,) or 16 arcminutes per second. RM is equivalent to speed 6 on the keypad, or 0.5 deg/sec As i researched this, i realized that i sent the wrong speed list in the previous message. The correct list is: :R1# :R2# :R3# :R4# :R5# :R6# :R7# :R8# and :R9# which are the equivalents to tapping those keys on the keypad. Thus 1x, 2x, 8x, 16x, 64x , 0.5 deg/sec, 1.0 deg/sec, 1.5 deg/sec and "Max" have fun --dick
Subject: ETX direct programming Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 07:09:50 From: JC Havaux Out of Office (jc_havaux@yahoo.com) I am looking for an existing software able to manage the movement of ETX by direct programming of the motors. I would like to use this method to create automated panoramic sky picture . If you have any info thanks in advance. JC HavauxMike here: I don't recall any existing software that drives the motors directly; they all communicate to the AutoStar, which in turn talks to the ETX. For more on writing your own software for the ETX/AutoStar, see the Helpful Information: AutoStar Info page.
Subject: Replacement hand controller for Meade ETX 105 Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 23:31:01 From: Carter, Lynne (Lynne.Carter@capita.co.uk) I like to use the hand controller with my ETX 105 but the 'plug' which connects it to the base is broken. I have checked the Meade site but they do not have it listed as a replacement part, do you know of any outlets where I can obtain a new one? cheers Lynne Carter.Mike here: If you want to make one, check out the articles "AutoStar Cable Problems" and "Long AutoStar Cable" on the Helpful Information: AutoStar Info page. Alternatively, contact Meade directly; they can send you a replacement cable. Or you could contact Telescope Warehouse (link on the Astronomy Links page).
Subject: Where to purchase ETX to Handbox cable Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 17:14:32 From: Bob Parry (robpar@telus.net) I have been looking through this site for over a year now and this is the first time I have tried to ask for help that I could not find in the archives. I have been having trouble aligning my ETX 105-PC and think I have finally found the problem. After swapping the cable between the handbox and the base with a cable from another ETX the alignment and intermittent reboots have stopped. So I am assuming that the cable is defective and now need to know where I can purchase one? Phoning Meade is a very long procedure and since I am in the same time zone, an expensive one. Anyone know if standard data cables can be used or if there is a direct way to purchase from Meade? Thank you, for all the help over the past year. Bob ParryMike here: First, have you tried reversing the cable or checked out the pins on the connectors? You might also check out the articles "AutoStar Cable Problems" and "Long AutoStar Cable" on the Helpful Information: AutoStar Info page.
Subject: ETX 90 question! Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 13:36:10 From: Christian Ortiz Leal (cpol80@msn.com) First of all, I say thanks for your usefull information you did put into your website. My personal question consist on controlling this ETX 90 device trough a personal computer. I got this device with the only purpose of moving this motor either up and down or left to the right, and I do not have the telescope itself. Therefore are many instructions that I can not controll (I guess). For the second I found out that many functions does not work at all. I have one manual of an lx-200 but only few commands works. Up to now Im able to move upward, downward and sidewards, with four differents speeds... (:RG#, RC#, :RM#, :RS#) where Rs goes up to a speed of 1200x. with RM unfortunately i dont know the speed... The second question if you know how can I control the device to move only a certain distance. I dont see direclty the commands that can help me with that. Hope you can help me with this.Mike here: I assume that you DO have an AutoStar to go with the ETX base. For more details on an answer I will turn you over to our resident AutoStar expert, Dick Seymour. Over to you Dick.
Subject: Info on your site Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 11:15:38 From: TrinityGTCars (trinitygtcars@bresnan.net) Great site with a LOT of information!! My question is this, for the most part does the various information you provide on the "AutoStar'" ETX applicable to the LXD GEM? Thanks, Fred in ColoradoMike here: Yep, it is, which is why it is also linked from my LXD55/75 Site (http://www.weasner.com/lxd).
And:
Great, Thanks!!
Subject: Autostar Error Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2007 18:58:15 From: Aaron Stern (sternman318@yahoo.com) Well tonight, I was using my ETX-80, and I had a problem. I did normal AltAz setup, did a one star normal alignment on Sirius, which usually gives me good results. It lined up well on M31, the Pleadies and M42, so I thought I would try something new tonight and tryed a cluster I haven't seen. When it was finished skewing, I didnt see a cluster at all. I wanted to make sure that my alignment was correct so I set it to skew to Betelgeuse, and it was EXTREMELY far off. I then told it to go to Rigel, because I thought I may have moved the tripod and I could tell if it would skew to where Rigel should be. The telescope proceded to move to the other side of the sky, way off of where it should have been. Is this just an error or maybe a sign of low batteries? I have also noticed that after setting it up and telling it to skew to Sirius for alignment, it is extremely off( maybe 2 or 3 full moons to give you an idea). I use an external GPS which should give true north. My second question is that one time I tryed aligning by using two star. I used Betelgeuse and Sirius, but it said that the alignment was unsuccessful. Is this due to the positions of the two stars? You dont have to include this question but will M1 appear pretty big? I tryed to view it from a 26MM to a 2X barlowed 9 MM and it just looked like a red star in each one. Am I acutually looking at a star or is it just out of observable range? Id like to thank you for the quick response on my first question.Mike here: The batteries could be low; doing a CALIBRATE MOTOR can help solve that problem, as can replacing the batteries AND doing a CALIBRATE MOTOR (which should be done each time the power source is changed). You might also redo the TRAIN DRIVES (can't hurt). And the alignment stars should be about 90 degrees apart, which is why you are getting the failures by picking those two stars. Normally, I recommend to just let the AutoStar pick the stars. M1 is faint and fuzzy but it will appear larger than the pinpoint of a star. I suspect you missed it, especially if there is any light pollution in your sky.
Subject: LX90 and 'hard stops' Sent: Saturday, January 6, 2007 03:34:16 From: John Hall (john_d_hall@hotmail.com) In your answer to Fritz Schonefeld, you said you didn't know if the LX90 had hard stops, or not. It doesn't. Unlike the ETX models, the whole base on an LX90 rotates, including the switch/socket panel, so nothing -internal- ever gets tangled up. However, if you are using an external power supply, that cord -can- get tangled up. I think the "cord wrap" option in the Autostar is to stop it winding up such external cables. Cheers, John.
Subject: re: How Do I Load Orbital Elements into Autostar (#494)? Sent: Thursday, January 4, 2007 19:43:44 From: richard seymour (rseymour@wolfenet.com) Precise instructions are here: http://www.weasner.com/etx/autostar/as_iss.html <-- short http://www.weasner.com/etx/autostar/as_satellite.html <---long and (general Autostar Updater operation for objects): http://www.weasner.com/etx/autostar/guide-libraries.html have fun --dick
Subject: How Do I Load Orbital Elements into Autostar (#494)? Sent: Wednesday, January 3, 2007 13:37:48 From: conrad schellenberg (conradandrose@gmail.com) i'm new to gotos but have many years experience with telescopes and computers. i got the etx-80 for christmas with the#494 handbox, the #506 astrofinder software/cable package and autostar suite ver. 3.19. my plan is to strap a laser to it and use it as a cheap "goto pointer" for my other scopes. the goto scope works great. i can "goto" both with the handbox and from my laptop. it's amazing how much more you can see with goto. however, i'm at a loss as to how to download satellite (iss,hst, etc.) orbital elements into autostar. so far i've been able to update the autostar update (ASU) app to ver. 4.6. however when i go to the "meade autostar supplementary download" web site and down to lets say the international space station i get the following: ISS (ZARYA) 1 25544U 98067A 07003.17513196 .00016326 00000-0 10214-3 0 3727 2 25544 51.6357 236.5044 0023833 50.2369 92.2775 15.76634373464716 PROGRESS-M 57 1 29245U 06025A 07001.26648269 .00014732 00000-0 92872-4 0 1391 2 29245 51.6359 246.3446 0023857 43.1158 59.0240 15.76566007 30072 SOYUZ-TMA 9 1 29400U 06040A 07001.26648269 .00014732 00000-0 92872-4 0 873 2 29400 51.6359 246.3446 0023857 43.1158 59.0240 15.76566007 16585 PROGRESS-M 58 1 29503U 06045A 07001.26648269 .00014732 00000-0 92872-4 0 669 2 29503 51.6359 246.3446 0023857 43.1158 59.0240 15.76566007 10987 the above are probably orbital elements but what do i do? just copy say line 1 for the iss (zarya), or lines 1 & 2, or the whole listing? aren't the progress and soyuz craft only at the iss for a short while? if so, what is the data for? also, can this type of data be obtained from other sites? sincerely conrad schellenbergMike here: There are many articles on the Helpful Information: AutoStar Info page on manipulating objects. I'd suggest starting with "Dr. Clay's Meade AutoStar Updating Guide".
And:
thank you very much. goto is great. conrad
Subject: LX90 LNT RESET Sent: Wednesday, January 3, 2007 00:26:21 From: Fritz Schonefeld (fritzs@3i.co.za) Is it really necessary to reset my LX90 LNT when I change between Alt/Az and Equatorial as stated in your very interesting site? This action would reset everything to factory default settings and as I live in Durban South Africa it is a long story to reinstate all my observing sites, and initialize the telescope and to recalibrate the sensors as this is the Southern Hemisphere where everything travels the opposite direction from the Northern Hemisphere. I have not yet detected a hard stop in the telescope and it is assumed that this is applicable to ETX models only? Fritz Schonefeld 3 January 2007Mike here: Which article are you referring to? Personally I haven't done a RESET when changing from Alt/Az to Polar or back with my ETX models. As to LX90 hard stops, I don't have one so don't know about the LX90 but the ETX-90/105/125 (except the ETX-90RA) have them.
And:
Thanks for your speedy reply. I read this on one of your sites called; Weasner's Meade ETX Technical Tips----Performance enhancement-creating the perfect "Go To" ETX or LX90. but last updated 21 Feb. 2001. My telescope was purchased during April 2005 and is a LX90 LNT with UHTC and it is true that the pointing is not so accurate in polar mode but the tracking for astrophotography is spot on for very long periods. I live on a hill and it is not possible to see anything through the telescope that is not at least 10 degrees up once the telescope is placed on the polar aligned pier. In alt/az no problem as I can see everything down the valley and I can train the drive no problem. The instruction manual also mentions nothing about seperate drive train for polar mode. Thanks for your time. Fritz Schonefeld South AfricaMike here: That is Dr. Clay Sherrod's article. Early on there was some thinking that redoing the TRAIN DRIVES when switching mounting mode was necessary for the ETX models. (NOTE: not the same as doing a RESET.) However, I confirmed with Meade that this is unnecessary (for the ETX models).
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