Last updated: 31 July 2005
Subject: ETX125PE Backordered Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 16:13:26 From: Billy834@aol.com (Billy834@aol.com) I'm new to astronomy and have had a Meade ETX 125PE on order for a month now. I wanted to know if this was typical of Meade for shipping orders? I realize there are some bugs on this model, and I would prefer to have one that works as intended, but I can't even get a shipping date from Meade or the dealer. What have been the experiences of others regarding this? Thanks for the help. BillMike here: Some dealers have longer wait times than others. If the wait bothers you, have you shopped around?
No, I haven't checked other dealers lead times. I figured it would come directly from Meade no matter who I ordered it from. I ordered this through one of Meade authorized distributors listed on their website. It wasn't OPT, however, who has the best customer service I have encountered yet. I have ordered accessories from OPT, and it's been a wonderful experience. How much time should I wait before thinking of canceling the order and placing with someone else? Thanks for you help. BillMike here: If you are happy with your current dealer, no reason not to stick with them. However, it won't hurt to ask other dealers. The Meade Elite dealers, like OPT and others, may have them in stock.
Thanks Mike, I'll stick it out a little longer and see what happens. If I have to change dealers, I'll definitely order from OPT. Rayna has been wonderful to deal with. Thanks for the great website. Bill
Subject: Play in the dec axis of a 125 Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2005 23:01:27 From: Barbara & Tom Andrews (firstname.lastname@example.org) Hello Mike, greetings from a land of naked-eye globulars and no pole star. My 2nd-hand 125EC locks properly in declination, but still gives a bit of movement when it's tight. When the dec screw is fully locked, I can lift the front of the OTA about 3 degrees before it stops moving. Release it and it drops back to its original position. The setting circles on both sides move with it, if that makes sense. I was under the impression that there should be no movement at all. I don't think it's the tube adapter problem that my search of the site found, as my reading of that problem tells me it causes the scope to droop as far as it will go because of gravity. Cheers, Tom AndrewsMike here: Since the lock is a friction type, some movement is normal when pushing on the OTA by hand. This normally not a problem since you should be moving the OTA with the handcontroller whenever the axis locks are engaged. The only problem is when adding some heavy accessories, such as a heavy camera and the slippage can cause the object you are trying to capture to disappear from the FOV.
Thank you, just making sure. I'm used to ETX-90s, which I suppose have less give because they're not as heavy. Cheers, Tom.
Subject: How do I purchase an ETX telescope in Israel? Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2005 14:11:00 From: Shirah (email@example.com) Could you tell me how I could purchase a good telescope in Israel. Are there any actual 'walk in' stores here to buy telescopes? I would appreciate any info. Thanks. Shirah Gantman -------------------------------- Take care and G-d bless, ShirahMike here: Simple to check. Go to the Meade dealer's web page (http://www.meade.com/dealerlocator/index.html) and select "Israel" in the popup menu.
Thanks so much. We found a store, and we are going there this friday! You have been a great help. Shirah
Subject: Finder catching the fork arm for my ETX125 Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 16:35:09 From: Tom Ko (firstname.lastname@example.org) Tonight, I was attempting to use mt ETX 125 in the polar mounting position. One of the steps is to set the declination to 90 degree, pointing to Polaris. In doing so, the finder mounted on the left of the OTA is catching the left fork arm. To be more precisely, it is the diagnal part of the finder if catching the inner of left arm fork. I searched your web and cannot find any explicit mentioning of it. Is this a common problem? Thanks TomMike here: My ETX-125 doesn't have that problem. See the photo of how I placed my finderscope about halfway down my ETX-125 experiences page (linked from the Buyer/New User Tips page).
Subject: ETX-90 and gps interfacing Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 14:55:19 From: Marc (email@example.com) Hello I have an ETX-90PE and with the latest software update it has a GPS interface option. I have a Garmin gps that outputs NMEA and I was wondering if hooking the gps serial output to the autostar controller would cause any damage to it. It is essentially a computer talking to it. Thanks for the help and your website is great. Answers a ton of questions. MarcMike here: It may or may not work (I don't recall any reports of anyone trying to use a Garmin unit). But as long as there is no power coming from the GPS, only data, it should be OK. If there is power then you will likely fry something in the Autostar.
Subject: FW: Backlash problem on my ETX-105 Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2005 08:00:34 From: Chris Newsome (firstname.lastname@example.org) Just to let you know that my ETX-105 will be back with me on Monday (1st August 2005). BC&F (The UK Meade people) have fitted a new RA motor to the telescope. Will let you now how it performs. Kind regards Chris Newsome (Derby, UK)
Subject: RE: ETX125 Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 20:29:39 From: Frank George (email@example.com) Mike to update you about my scope! I sent my scope back to Meade and finally got it back and had to wait about 1-2 weeks for the weather to settle down here in North Alabama to be able to get it out and use it to see if it was repaired. Meade says there was a definite problem with it and they repaired the elevation clutch that was clicking and the runaway elevation problem on alignment, my Meade power supply was ok just like you said it was and now I have a little noisier gears but everything seems to work right on it and the alignments are still good. Thumbs up to Meade for the repair after some of the stories I have read it feels good to know that some of these stories are just fluke happenings and not an every case scenario. Thanks for the Great Web Site and your undying help to all those of us who come here for help and guidance! Thanks again!!
Subject: Re: ETX ASRTO Repair Questions Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 08:04:43 From: P. Clay Sherrod (firstname.lastname@example.org) What you have is very common on the earlier Meade ETX scopes and is ONLY the baffle cone that has come loose, probably due to heat. I have a fix posted on Mike Weasner's ETX site, the direct link: http://www.weasner.com/etx/techtips/baffle.html Just take your time and it will be fine! Note that you will find an incredible wealth of great repair and use information on the Mighty ETX site....you should make that a primary bookmark on your computer! Good luck. Clay -------------------- Dr. P. Clay Sherrod Arkansas Sky Observatories Harvard MPC H41 (Petit Jean Mountain) Harvard MPC H45 (Petit Jean Mountain South) Harvard MPC H43 (Conway) Harvard MPC H44 (Cascade Mountain) http://www.arksky.org/ ----- Original Message ----- To: email@example.com Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 9:55 AM Subject: ETX ASRTO Repair Questions Dr. Clay, I found your email address after searching for repair service on google. I have an ETX Astro telescope that I purchased new a few years ago. I have barely found time to use this scope, but the last time I did I noticed i could not focus. I noticed that the secondary baffle seems to have shifted. I have included a photo that points out the part that has shifted in case i mentioned the wrong part. I want to have my telescope repaired but do not know what channels to go through. Thank you, -Steve
Subject: RE: RA Drive on ETX 125 EC Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 07:40:39 From: Hartigan, John (firstname.lastname@example.org) I'll get in contact with my dealer. I'll let you know when I know what the problem was and if a solution is possible. Thanks for the reply John HartiganAnd:
From: Stephen Bird (email@example.com) That is exactly what my ETX105 did before the final crunch came and the gearbox frame broke. Click from the RA drive and the image jumped as the gear teeth failed to mesh properly. In my case it was suspected that a spare o ring in the RA gearbox assembly since manufacture found its way between the gear teeth, and spelt the ultimate demise of the gearbox. When it was repaired, I was given a spare gearbox, which was complete with electronics board, plastic gearbox and motor and the brass worm drive and cage, and when you look at the assembly out of the ETX base, you see that the set up of the gearbox and worm drive for the RA assembly is critical if you are to avoid the teeth jumping. Some advice seems to say you can / should set up the tension of the gearbox to the final gear on the worm drive shaft, I have my doubts about that. I would say that you should not seek to apply any tension in this way. The three small screws with the rubber o rings on them fastening the gearbox to the RA base are not meant to hold the gearbox tightly to the base. They are there merely to provide a flexible mounting via the rubber o rings. A single spot of Locktite on each screw to stop them vibrating out is adequate in my opinion. The only adjustment in the RA gear train should be the brass worm gear to the metal RA clutch gear. This is effected via the three larger screws holding the worm drive cage to the ETX base. As I said, if you remove the whole RA gearbox, electronics board, brass worm drive and worm drive cage as a single unit, by removing the three small screws with the o rings on them, and the three larger screws on the wom drive cage, all will become clear. Mine was repaired under warranty, and I was given a very helpful report by the service engineer. Regards Stephen Bird
Subject: Sky Assurance Extended Warranty Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 05:08:17 From: David Hanych (firstname.lastname@example.org) If I purchase a new ETX-105 PE telescope through one of your sponsors, is the 3-year extended warranty worth buying? DH (newbie and scopeless)Mike here: There are no "sponsors" of my web sites but like any "insurance", the extended warranty may or may not come in handy. If you never need it then you didn't need to spend the money upfront. If you do need it down the road then you may wish you had it unless you have the funds available for any required repairs. So, there is no right answer.
I stand corrected. Perhaps I should have said "supporters" because I was thinking about OPT, who has a little logo ad on your web page. DHMike here: There are many supporters of my Sites, so, yes that term is appropriate.
Subject: RA Drive on ETX 125 EC Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 07:01:55 From: Hartigan, John (email@example.com) Firstly thanks for the fantastic sight. I have my ETX 125EC for nearly a year now. When I first bought it everything was fine, but a few months ago the RA drive (at least I think it is the RA drive) started to cause some problems. It is much more noticible at higher powers. While looking through the eye-piece the object tends to drift a bit but not overly so, through the FOV. But then there is an audible "Click" sound and the drive jumps back across the FOV, this happens every few seconds and as you can imagine ruins observing at higher powers, or astrophotography. I have tried changing power supplies and always calibrate motors and train drives afterwords, but the problem persists. I have looked through you're sight and cannot find this specific problem any help would be greatly appreciated. Yours Sincerely John HartiganMike here: I did a search (from the ETX Home Page) for 'click drive' and got a hit for a report that sounds similar to yours. It is on the Current Feedback page and the subject is "Backlash problem on my ETX-105". Search doesn't always give good results but sometimes it does! Anyway, the solution there was to return it to Meade.
Subject: etx 90 or 125 Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 06:11:45 From: Andy Lancour (firstname.lastname@example.org) Thanks for all your help! I got the etx-90 tuned up w/ tips from your book and it works so much better! On another note, I used to own a Meade 8" LX 200 and went w/ the etx 90 for portability(and price). Views are alot different(which I expected). If I were to purchase an etx 125, would I see a dramatic difference from the etx 90 as far as how much I can see? Some of my favorites(M13) just aren't as I hoped.Would a 125 be a good middle ground scope, or not significantly different?Thanks for your valued opinion.Mike here: You might want to read my ETX-125 experiences on the Buyer/New User Tips page. Also, look through my ETX-70 experiences there as well; I have some photo comparisons. Certainly the -125 will give you brighter and larger views but whether that will satisfy you depends upon a lot of factors.
Subject: Question about terms Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2005 21:21:08 From: Mike Luis (email@example.com) I got 2 questions. What does a Focal reducer do? And what does a Counter Weight do?Mike here: A Focal Reducer does just that; it reduces the focal length of the telescope. As a consequent, it also reduces the f/ ratio of the telescope and typically increased the field of view. See the Shutan Wide Field Adapter (also a focal reducer) on the Accessory Reviews: Showcase Products for more info. A counterweight does just that; it counters the affect of adding equipment to a telescope to retain a balanced condition. For more info, see the various articles on the Helpful Information: Astrophotography page.
Subject: Just some talk (etx) Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 17:18:21 From: firstname.lastname@example.org (email@example.com) Mostly I send some pictures and you post them nicely on your big and beautiful website. I just want to thank you that you take so much time to do so and to update your website with so much information. I hope I can contribute to the ETX users dreams that a lot more than you think is possible with this little gear. Just take your time to learn things and try to have patience is my advice (that is for the ETX users). I get a lot of mail of people who also want to do deep sky with the ETX. As I said, it's possible, but not when you just unwrapped your brand new ETX from the box. Try to learn the sky, try to learn the software (very important), try to learn your ETX and try to read in the books and magazines and on the Internet and try to become a member of astrogroups. Then you will learn step by step how to get the most out of your scope (if it is an ETX or an Richey Chretien 20 inch doesn't matter). Patience and eagerness (is this good english?) are the Magic Words! Mike again, thanks for YOUR patience! :-) Regards, Job Geheniau
Subject: Question about ETX125 box Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 16:45:34 From: Acaca Acaccevich (firstname.lastname@example.org) I have one question. I was going to buy a ETX125AT today from Discovery store but when they checked boxes they only had boxes labeled ETX125EC. Is that normal for ETX125AT to be labeled as EC? Thanks, AndreiMike here: See the FAQ page on my ETX Site for info on the EC vs AT. But the box may still be labeled as EC; just be certain you get all the AT bundled accessories.
Subject: Your fine ETX site Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2005 18:53:37 From: MarsTSM (MarsTSM@Comcast.net) I just wanted to send a quick */Thankyou/* and a big */Way To Go /*for producing such a fine ETX telescope site! I have an ETX90 that's been running nearly flawlessly for six years! On the original factory right-hand tube adapter no less! Several months ago I made a road trip to the Kitt Peak NOAO observatory in Arizona on their AOP program and had the great fortune to spend an entire night imaging deep sky objects with CCD imagemaster Adam Block using Kitt Peaks 20" RC scope and SBIG ST-10. Wowza!! WAY cool!! After being dragged home, I started eyeballing my ETX and began wondering "Hmm..What can I do to get the /absolute most/ out of this little jewel??". The answer is to browse you excellent website!! /Every/ single question I had was explained there, clearly and in great detail. Truly the place to go for quality ETX info!! Keep up the great work, you have a lot to be proud of!! Clear skies to you sir:) Chris
Subject: ETX-125 sold Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 08:02:33 From: Dubboy44@aol.com (Dubboy44@aol.com) Just wanted to THANK YOU for the opportunity to advertise my scope for sale on your site. I received responses immediately but soon became aware that there are a LOT of (would be) scam artists out there. The ETX-125 did sell, however, and I would like to offer some advise to others that may be buying / selling on line. 1.Use a good escrow site for the transaction. There are also a lot of crooked escrow companies out there! You can find a list of the "good guys" at SOS4Auctions.com. I used escrow.com and they were excellent. It is well worth the few dollars for the piece of mind for both seller and buyer. 2. Never "link" to an escrow site. Always type in the address. 3. You'll be able to tell if the buyer/seller is sincere by mentioning that you will be using an escrow company for the transaction. ( the crooks will run and hide) 4. The escrow fees are negotiable between buyer and seller as are the shipping costs I was lucky enough to complete my transaction without a hitch, thanks to the advise from others on your website. Thanks Again, You may remove my ad. Don S.
Subject: Backlash problem on my ETX-105 Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 00:53:44 From: Chris Newsome (email@example.com) I am having a problem with severe backlash on my ETX-105. I run my ETX-105 on rechargeable batteries and whenever I recharge them, I do the usual reset/train/callibrate to ensure the motors accuracy in pointing. This always goes without a problem and the pointing accuracy is maintained. When I am then using the scope for either normal viewing or imaging in either alt/az or polar aligned mode, the object will move very slowly move from left to right across the field of view (which I put down to slight errors in doing the initial level and north align). However after about two to three seconds, there is a click from the RA drive and the object jumps back to the same point in the field of view as to when I first viewed it. The object then moves slowly across the FOV and again there is the click and it jumps back. Is the power source of batteries at fault in as much that it just can't provide the constant power level required for smooth tracking and when the scope realises that it is not moving as it should, it grabs a sudden chunk of power from the batteries to correct itself. Does a portable power pack or a mains adaptor provide the constant steady high level of power needed for the motor to run smoothly without the backlash or would you suspect a more sinister problem with the gears? When I store the scope, it is stored on the tripod with the clutches (RA and Dec) released and the scope resting in the vertical position. Is this putting some sort of strain on the gears which could be causing the problem and do you have a suggestion for storing the ETX in a better way (I can't afford a Meade hardcase!!!). Many thanks for you help in this matter. Chris Newsome (Derby, UK)Mike here: Rechargeable batteries can be the source of the problem. They tend to drain quickly, requiring a frequent CALIBRATE MOTORS. Remember, after you recharge them you need to CALIBRATE again. Also, it is RESET/CALIBRATE and then TRAIN; not the order you stated above. Storing with the axes unlocked between uses is a good idea; I've done that for years without problems. There could be a more serious problem (the click and jump) but see if the CALIBRATE or using regular batteries or a different power source helps.
Thanks for that. As soon as I get a different power source, I will let you now the results. ChrisAnd more:
This evening, I have tried two different power sources (mains and a powerpack) and the problem persisted and so I am thinking it is more sinister. As a result, I am sending the ETX back to to Meade via the supplier to get the problem fixed (as it is still under warranty). Will keep you updated on how I get on as it is the first time I have ever had to return anything astronomical to the supplier!!! Kind regards Chris Newsome Derby, UK
Subject: Re: Filters Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 18:41:00 From: Jerry Nguyen (firstname.lastname@example.org) Yes, sounds like you need a couple of different filters in your repertoire. Thanks for emailing me back.And:
I just read on some site that some filters will block out too much light if you have a 6" or smaller scope which is the type that I will be buying.Mike here: Yep.
Subject: DSX to ETX upgrade Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 16:47:15 From: Christopher L. Morris (CMorris@clmnetwork.com) Just wanted to let you know so you could tell the other ETX fans out there that my upgrade from a DSX-125 to an ETX-125 (non-UHTC) was a complete success. Turns out that the DSX *does* have all of the screw taps on the back of the OTA that are needed to attach the "sides pieces" that are on an ETX OTA...they are just covered with simple plastic covers that are very lightly cemented in place. So, if anyone else out there has the opportunity to upgrade from a DSX to an ETX, then they should feel confident that it can be done with very very little effort. Thanks, Chris
Subject: Filters Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 08:45:16 From: Jerry Nguyen (email@example.com) I just read a couple of articles on your website about filters. There's a lot of good info there. If I just had $100 to spend on a filter and I'm interested in looking at deep sky objects, would you recommend I spend it on a nebula filter or a light pollution reduction filter? Thanks for you time.Mike here: Well, that depends. What type of light pollution do you have? What type of DSOs, emission or reflection, would be primary? As you can see, there is not an easy fix for light pollution. Also, keep in mind that such filters reduce the amount of light reaching your eye; they block other light as well, thereby increasing the contrast. So if you have a small aperture telescope you may lose more than you gain, depending upon the object.
Subject: ETX tube finish/good Autostar version Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 14:30:27 From: Harden Schaeffer (firstname.lastname@example.org) Am I correct in thinking that the purple color of the ETX tubes is due to anodized aluminum? If so, what's a good coating to put over it to protect it from small scratches, finger smudges, etc? I've been told by auto wax manufacturers not to use their wax on anodizing, but what can I use? I'm not afraid to take the tube off the mirror and corrector cells - I've done this before, with no impairment to the optical performance. Also, I'm now running version Autostar 33El on my non - PE ETX and LX-90. Is there any reason to update to the latest version? My attitude is, If It Ain't Broke Don't Fix It, but if the new version fixes one of the problems, or adds a USEFUL feature, I can see improving things. Above all, DOES THE NEW VERSION INTRODUCE ANY NEW BUGS?? I'd appreciate advice on either or both of these matters. HardenMike here: See the articles "Cleaning the Tube" and "Telescope Maintenance" on the Helpful Information: Buyer/New User Tips page. As to the Autostar version, if you are happy with what you have, no reason to update. Also, please review the Email Etiquette item on the ETX Home Page, specifically "Message Text". Thanks for understanding.
Subject: Adapter Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 14:44:12 From: Edwin Doe (email@example.com) I have an ETX 125 and love it. I also have a PST and love it. I am looking for a bracket to mount on my ETX for the PST. Do you know of one or can you steer me in the right direction? Thanks. Dr. DoeMike here: I use a camera piggyback adapter with my PST. See my comments on the Accessory Reviews: Filters page. Works fine.
Subject: Mars Observing Guide from ASO for 2005 Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 04:58:22 From: P. Clay Sherrod (firstname.lastname@example.org) Note that we have just posted our 2005 Mars Observing Guide on the Arkansas Sky Observatory webpage for the upcoming close opposition of the Red Planet....you will find many projects and quick, easy references and links to hopefully provide you with the tools for public outings, press releases and for your own rewards in observing Mars in this favorable apparition! You are welcome to bookmark the link and refer it to others as you wish. http://www.arksky.org/ Clear skies.... Dr. Clay -------------------- Arkansas Sky Observatories Harvard MPC H41 (Petit Jean Mountain) Harvard MPC H45 (Petit Jean Mountain South) Harvard MPC H43 (Conway) Harvard MPC H44 (Cascade Mountain) http://www.arksky.org/
Subject: meteorite Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 21:50:01 From: email@example.com (firstname.lastname@example.org) This is a photo of the 5,000 pound "Old Woman" meteorite that was found by a couple of prospectors in San Bernardino County back in the 1975. It's on display at the Desert Discovery Center in Barstow, CA. It's amazing; anyone passing through Barstow should stop by and check it out. While you're there be sure to drop a couple of bucks in the "donations" bottle on the front counter so they can keep it on display. Dscn9022.jpg
Thank you for keeping your web site up and running. I know it's a lot of work but we appreciate it! Sincerely, Brian Miller Spring Valley, CA
Subject: How can I see the sun with my Meade ETX-90? Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 10:37:38 From: Ine Huisman (email@example.com) I am also the proud owner of a Meade ETX-90 with varius accessories. Thanks to your book and site I have been able to get good looks at the moon, Saturn and Jupiter, and even Mars last year. Now I'm tryin to get a look at the sun and, if possible, to make a video using my webcam. I bought a Orion Solar Filter which attaches nicely at the front of the tube, I covered my baby up with a light cloth just as prescribed. Now in order to find the sun I look through an oculair first, since my computer is upstairs and I can't look at the screen from where the ETX is standing. Unfortunately I see nothing, sometimes it's all black, sometimes it's all white. I just can't seem to find the sun, even if I try to make the shades as thin as possible. Should I use my 40 mm. oculair or is 26 mm. better for this? I have all kinds of oculairs and tried these 2 to no avail. Are there any spots at the moment that I could focus on? should I put the knob close to the device or pull it almost out? I have a flip-mirror, would that help? I'm out in the dark even though it's daytime! I hope a little advice can help me with this. Thank you and sincere greetings from Ine Huisman, Eindhoven The Netherlands.Mike here: There are several techniques that can help. You could make a solar filter for the finderscope (use quality solar filter materials from a reputable company). You can use the "shadow method" where you minimize of the ETX shadow or line up the finderscope bolts on a piece of paper or cardboard held behind the ETX. Or you can make one of the Sun finders discussed on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page. And using a low power eyepiece (such as the 40mm) will help. Only one small spot at the moment.
Subject: Meade ETX90EC right ascention troubles Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 09:41:04 From:Mike here: "Grinding" doesn't sound good. Check for a wire inside the base that might be getting in the way of the movement. A test you can try is to unlock the axis and slowly move the telescope by hand back and forth and see if you can detect where the problem is occurring. Let me know.
(firstname.lastname@example.org) I have found your site to be very infomative but I haven't came across this particular problem. I found an ETX90EC at a local pawn shop recently for a great price but here's the problem. Declination controls work fine but the right ascention don't work in either direction. It sounds as though the motor is turning, but there is no movement. I have checked the lock and opened up the bottom and all the plastic gears seem to be intact. When you try to move left or right it makes a grinding type noise like the gears are not meshed. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I would love to get back to using this as it was designed to be used. Thank you very much. Mark
Subject: Meade Rucksack for ETX 105 Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 04:21:24 From: Ray Noonan (email@example.com) My 105 continues to amaze - as does your splendid site. Please, has anyone tried the Meade Rucksack for this scope? Seems more natural to store/ carry it upright. Yours ... Ray Noonan
Subject: Meade I2C protocol - Focus Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 15:20:17 From: Julio Silva (firstname.lastname@example.org) I want to build an electric focus for my ETX-70, and want to connect it to AUX port, so it can be controlled from my autostar 497/PC... So I need the Meade I2C protocol, for the focus control, do you know where to find it? Has someone figure it out? Thanks for any tip, and for the great site!! jS
Subject: ETX 105 Repaired: Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 13:58:54 From: Stephen Bird (email@example.com) Well I took a drive around the M25, (also known as the car park park moving at 90mph!), to B,C&F, the UK Meade distributor. And what a profitable morning it was. Credit where it is due, now they are in a new location, they are a pleasure to do business with. I arrived just before opening time, and the morning was already going well, got a call saying a deal at work I had put a lot of effort into had closed for 5 million UK pounds, so I was on a high! Dead on the dot of 9 a.m. they opened up shop and I took the ETX 105 in and was warmly greeted and given a cup of tea, whilst we waitied for the Service Manager Steve Collingwood to come down from the service department. Steve discussed the problem (broken RA gearbox) and I showed him the offending spare o ring from manufacture that had taken the best part of two years to eventually find its way into the gears and break the box. Whilst I waited, I had a good chat with Ted from sales, and bought an eyepiece extension tube to help with getting sufficient length adjustment to parfocalize and eyepiece with the DSI Pro. Ted also mentioned that the o ring problem should be covered under a limited lifetime warranty as it really was a case of a construction error waiting to go wrong. Anyway Steve came back, and took the time to describe exactly what he had done, replacing the drive, checking the function and even checking collimation. He covered the bedding in process of the new drive and said if there were any problems to bring it straight back. Then the surprise, NO CHARGE! Add to that Steve gave me a spare refurbished RA drive which is complete with RA gearbox, electronics, and the final worm gear and mounting, to get me out of trouble in future. Amazing service, what can I say. Anyway I spent the cash I had taken to pay for the repair on accessories, they certainly deserved the custom, and I even got 10% discount on the goods, as I am a member of the British Astronomical Society. I must admit I had previously found dealing with B,C&F a little painful via their website, but my opinion has gone full circle having dealt face to face. Their website address is www.telescopehouse.co.uk and they deserve the plug, as I am a tough customer to satisfy usually, comes of being in sales for too long! Now looking at the spare RA gearbox assembly, it is plain that the adjustment is not as simple as you might think. If you adjust the three mounting screws with the little o rings on them on their own, without considering the three larger srews that hold the worm drive mounting, then you will set up a great deal of tension in the gearbox frame where it wraps around the final tooted gear on the worm drive shaft. In fact if you remove the whole assembly, by removing the three small screws with their o rings, then the three larger worm drive mounting screws, you will find the gearbox, electronics board and worm drive mounting with worm gear, all come out as one complete part. It is only then that you can see how the unit needs adjusting. Seems to me that with the three smaller screws and o rings removed, you first set up the meshing of the worm drive to the final drive gear on the clutch assembly. Once this is meshed nicely and adjusted, then and only then, put the three smaller screws with o rings in. And don't aim to tighten them to apply tension to the gearbox frame. The whole point of the o rings is that they are a kind of suspension to take up any torque or movement. A drop of loctite to stop the small screws loosening will do the trick. Regards Stephen Bird
Subject: re: ETX105 Spots on mirror Sent: Monday, July 11, 2005 21:57:46 From: Richard Seymour (firstname.lastname@example.org) Be -extremely- careful when cleaning the mirror!!! The coatings are **much** more fragile than the coatings on the corrector plates. Do **not** rub the mirror face with any pad/sponge/whatever. Merely flush the blemishes with water (preferably distilled). Patience and directed squirting are the key. Do as much "homework" as you can, prowling the web (and/or local amateur astronomers, there are bunches of those in NZ) for tips and techniques of primary mirror cleaning. good luck --dickAnd:
Thank you for your advise it is very much appreciated. Any advise on getting to the mirror ? cheers AndrewAnd:
I have never attempted to dig -that- deep into my scope (an old ETX90). There are pages under Mike's Telescope Tech Tips page which describe getting that deep into old ETX90's, but the newer ETX105 may have differences. I would -think- that the rear cell carrier is held onto the OTA barrel by either being threaded on (like the front corrector plate) or by obvious screws from the side (disassemble as the "how to collimate" article describes, then look.). But: there are currently a bunch of postings at Mike's site and various Yahoo groups by "Warpcorp", who's trying to get his ETX90 mirror cell freed. And it's resisting him. I don't know if that's due to his -particular- unit being jammed, or if it's a family trait/design issue. If i were trying to clean it, if the mirror assembly didn't simply slide off the carrier (beware of bearing structures deciding to fall apart as that happens, or springs to sproing to distant places), i'd be tempted to perform the cleaning -in- the barrel.. but that would have serious impact upon the grease along the supporting baffle tube. This is why the "find experienced help" suggestion. Here's a quick list: http://www.astronomy.org.au/ngn/engine.php?SID=1000022&AID=100013 The ETX internal construction is quite similar (just half the size) of any "normal" 8 inch Schmidt Cassegranian, so there should be a decent experience base available. good luck --dick
Subject: Rosin on ETX 125 corrector Sent: Monday, July 11, 2005 18:05:11 From: Newman, William Royall (email@example.com) Hi - I was using my new ETX 125 UHTC in May and apparently an overhead tree dripped some small drops of rosin (4 or 5 drops of about 1mm each) on the corrector lens. Is there any way to get this stuff off without damaging the lens coating, or should I just live with it? Best regards, Bill NewmanMike here: I would suggest removing it. Either make or buy "Doctor Clay's Cleaning Kit" (see the Accessory Reviews: Miscellaneous page) and use that.
Subject: EXT 125 AT replacement parts for scope transmissions. Sent: Monday, July 11, 2005 08:26:10 From: Al Zink (firstname.lastname@example.org) Well it's the first problem with my scope. I have had some bad weather. I also am only available on Monday and Tuesday nights. So when my scope failed it was 14 months old. It is the newer version. The scope will GOTO without problems but when it has to track it stops within 10 minutes with a MOTOR FAULT. I took the base apart since the warranty was over and found that the one of the transmission gears for the right asc. had a tooth bent over. I called Meade to inquire about a replacement part and was told it was not available. I then asked for the entire transmission gear set and was advised Meade does not supply replacement parts for sale at all. I am an electronics technician and have work as a mechanic for more years than I care to mention so the replacement is not a problem for me. I was just very disappointed to learn that if you have a small problem no parts are available to me. I love the scope so I decided to get it repaired. It is just that I know it could have been repaired much faster and less expensively by me. I thought parts for products had to be made accessible for products sold here in the USA for a number of years. Of course I was then advised about being eligible for SKY ASSURANCE after the repair is made and paid for. Do you know where parts may be purchased for these scopes. ( Maybe I should consider going into the parts business.) Thanks.Mike here: You can try Telescope Warehouse (link on the Astronomy Links page). Yes, parts are available but only to authorized repair centers. The same applies whether you are talking about a telescope like this or a projection TV set. Ever tried to get a new lens assembly???
Subject: ETX-125 Base+fork Sent: Monday, July 11, 2005 05:17:28 From: Chris Morris (Chris.Morris@Hickory-Farms.com) Would you happen to know where I might find an ETX-125 base+fork assembly? I have a DSX-125 that I got really cheap and would now like to convert it to an ETX. Thanks, Chris MorrisMike here: You can try Telescope Warehouse (link on the Astronomy Links page). However, you will also need the Left and Right Tube Adapters as well as the proper mounting holes for them in the OTA. Does the DSX model have them since it is a single arm mount?
No, it doesn't, but I figured I might try some 3M double sided tape for the other side. I figured that if it didn't turn out right, I could always go back to the original config...Mike here: I have my doubts about that working...
Subject: ETX premier and finder Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2005 20:35:39 From: Paul Zadach (Pzadach@cox.net) I have an ETX 125 UHTC which is working great, but I would like to get a better finder. Will the Telrad work on my scope? Also, when the new PE scopes were announced I thought it might be worth upgrading, but with what I have read, there seems to be alot of problems. I think Meade kind of blew it when they put those graphics on the scopes. In my opinion it makes them look like cheap toys instead of high quality scopes. Your thoughts? Thanks, paulMike here: There are many finderscopes, including a Telrad that can be attached to an ETX. See the Accessory Reviews: Finderscopes page. Personally I do not think the image makes the PE model look like a "cheap toy".
Thanks for your rapid response, your site is truly the best and has been most helpful to me. clear skies, paul
Subject: RA gearbox mounting O ring Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2005 12:58:52 From: Stephen Bird (email@example.com) Well, it appears that an extra RA gearbox mounting O ring may well have got jammed in the gear train. It must have been in there since new and found its way into the gears. The ticking suddenly got lounder, a sickening crunch, and then no RA drive. The collar that aligns the gearbox by wrapping around the final drive gear before the worm, has broken. So on Tuesday I am off the the dealer for a while you wait repair. Seeing the tension the gearbox is under at this collar, adjustment looks to be a real pain, so I'll let BC&F do it, at least then the repair will be warranted. A two hour drive each way and lunch in a nice pub in Tunbridge Wells no doubt! They actually offered to sell me the parts to fix it myself! I didn't think they did that? I'm tempted to buy an RA gearbox and a DEC gearbox for the shelf in case I need them in future. Anyone else want me to pick up some spares whilst I am there? Regards Stephen BirdAnd:
From: Richard Seymour (firstname.lastname@example.org) One good thing about a -warranty- repair is that they might also swap the electronics if they'd been hurt by this episode. The non-US distributors apparently have some flexibility about how they treat the parts issue... there was a time they were "loose", then Meade got uppity and things tightened up. Now "looser" is reappearing. One can hope. One could possibly make a (very) meager living by flying across the oceans, ferrying scopes from the US to the rest of the world, and bringing back parts to the US. have fun --dick
Subject: ETX105 Spots on mirror Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2005 03:46:52 From: AJ (email@example.com) I purchased an ETX105 (while holidaying in Australia) a couple of years back now but have not really used it much due to work pressures, weather etc. Its time to put my investment into action. I have had it out a few times but most of the time the scope is stored in the appropriate Meade hard case. I got the ETX out the other day and decided to check the lens for dust etc. While peering into the telescopes lens to my horror noticed a number of blemishes on the mirror. These seem to be some form of mildew. Now if things were simple I would have put it into the car and taken the scope to a Meade repair centre however there is no such beast here. There is a dealer in Australia who appears to have some good knowledge of the product but that's obviously to far in the car ! So here come the questions. 1) How bad is this ? 2) How does one remove it or get it removed ? 3) What did I do wrong to have been inflicted with this ? (Fixing it is one thing but stopping it from happening again is also critical) Just one other point, I have a Scopetronix 4 in 1 multi-mate which was fitted while the unit was stored. The humidity here in Auckland would range from 45-85% however given that the scope was stored in the case most of the time I would have thought this would have helped. Anyway any info you can provide would be gratefully received. Have looked over your very useful site but didn't come across anyone with a similar problem. Best regards AJ Wright Auckland, NZLMike here: If indeed it is mildew, then it should be cleaned. However, some damage might have been done to the aluminizing, which if bad enough, would require a mirror realuminizing or replacement. There are a couple of articles on the Helpful Information: Buyer/New User Tips page that may help you: "Cleaning Optics" and "Telescope Maintenance".
Thank you for your response, it is gratefully appreciated. I did have a look at the section on optic's cleaning and maintenance however did not see any reference to the cleaning of the mirror. I assume the "recipe" for cleaning the optics is also suitable for the mirror. At the risk of being a pest could you please explain the procedure for getting to the mirror. I went to a lot of trouble to locate and import the telescope and as I am sure you can appreciate are rather nervous about pulling it apart. So tips would not go astray ? Thanks again Cheers AJMike here: OTA disassembly photos at: http://www.mapug-astronomy.net/ragreiner/etxguider.html.
Subject: ETX-125PE Focusing Question Sent: Saturday, July 9, 2005 09:18:10 From: Robert C. Maples (firstname.lastname@example.org) First off ... very informative site, thanks. On to my question, I am new to Astronomy and just bought an ETX-125PE to take the plunge. I have noticed that whenever I adjust the focusing knob, the image inside the viewfinder moves to the left or right a little bit (if I rotate the knob clockwise the image moves to the left, counter clockwise it moves to the right). It is not as if the image moves out of the viewing area, it moves just a little but I was wondering if this is normal or is it something that would warrant my returning the telescope for another one. I appreciate any insight you may provide. Thanks, Robert MaplesMike here: Some slight image shift is normal with the design used in the ETX Maksutov-Cassegrain models. The main mirror is moved during focusing, hence the shift.
Subject: ETX90 Sent: Friday, July 8, 2005 10:44:58 From: WarpedCorp (email@example.com) I just joined the world of the ETX. I purchased a DSX90 (same OTA as ETX90 mounted on single arm DS type mount) to be used as my vacation scope and guide scope on bigger mounts. I may actually be upgrading the OTA to a ETX125 with UHTC... First light and collimation testing will be tonight. So... I'll probably be bugging you with questions from time to time. I've already culled all the info off of your site and hopefully may be able to contribute from time to time. What yahoo group would you recommend as the best bet for further info? The plan is to modify the mount to hold the 90mm OTA side by side with the Coronado PST for simultaneous white light and h-alpha viewing - should be a sweet combo. If it would be appropriate, I can furnish some pics of the finished product when completed. Thanks again for all your help and GREAT info. Clear skies.... WarpMike here: Welcome to the ETX Community! There is a fairly active ETXASTRO Yahoo Group. As to the PST, see my PST comments on the Accessory Reviews: Filters page; I have piggybacked it onto my ETX-90RA. Works well.
I know the three deep set screws on the back of the scope allow the rear cell (diagonal) assembly to come off, but that still leaves the primary cell attached to the tube. How does the primary remove? Thanks WarpMike here: This page should help: http://www.mapug-astronomy.net/ragreiner/etxguider.html.
Thanks for the site referral. I read over the procedure and can do everything it suggests EXCEPT get the primary mirror cell out of the OTA. IT won't budge. First light tonight showed classic airy concentric circles both in and out of focus both ways... Belts on Jupiter with a 26mm ep were classic. Yeah, the tripod is cheap but the goto's were in the ep and tracking was good. I can carry the whole assembly in one hand with my ep case and battery pack in the other. This is going to be a FUN little scope! WarpMike here: Now you begin to understand why I call it "The Mighty ETX".
But how do I get the primary mirror assembly out? ThanksMike here: Well, I thought (since I've not totally disassembled mine, that it was just bolted on. Maybe the DSX-90 OTA is slightly different. Just curious; WHY do you want to take it out? You will have to recollimate the optics, which is not an easy task with the ETX-90 (and I presume with the DSX-90) unless you have an optical bench. It can be done (articles on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page) but should not be undertaken without a realization that you can make things worse instead of better.
Subject: left ota swing arm Sent: Wednesday, July 6, 2005 12:59:34 From: Lori King (firstname.lastname@example.org) My left ota swing arm has three going on four cracks around the brass screw hole. All the way to the edge, the fourth hasn't gone all the way to the edge. When you tighten the knob it expands the cracks and won't slew very well. Do I need to send it to Meade to get a new one or does someone carry the swing arm? It is not under warranty Thanks BrianMike here: Check the articles "DEC lock mod", "ETX Hints, Tips, Projects, & Products", "ETX DEC knob fix", and "ETX DEC Lock Not Tightening Fix" on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page. Alternatively, see "Astro Hut Right Tube Adapter Replacement (ETX-90EC/AT only)" on the Astronomy Links page.
Subject: ETX90EC vs ETX90AT Sent: Wednesday, July 6, 2005 09:04:57 From: Ben Pretorius (email@example.com) Some websites talks about the EC model and some of the AT model. What is the difference if any?? Thanks BEN PRETORIUSMike here: See the FAQ page.
Subject: ETX-125 RA drive problems Sent: Monday, July 4, 2005 19:48:59 From: Glenn B. Smith (firstname.lastname@example.org) I encountered problems while using my ETX-125 this weekend. After successfully finding several deep space objects the RA drive motor suddenly started making horrible noises when slewing in one direction but not the other. I might note that prior to this I had noticed that when reversing direction of the RA slew would cause hesitation and abrupt shift in aim when choosing the opposite direction of travel. After some investigation in the Telescope Tech Tips I got brave enough to remove the bottom plate. I almost immediately found that every single screw that holds down the RA motor gear assembly and circuit board was loose. In addition, I found an extra rubber O ring floating around. After some study it appears that the O ring had not been put under one of the feet for the gear assembly as the other two mounting points both had an O ring of the same size underneath them. The effect of the loose screws was to let the entire mechanism ride up when slewing one direction, but it would pull down to the mounting plate when the other direction was chosen. This explained quite nicely the hesitation and shift when changing direction and only took a second to tighten the screws back down. However, the worst was yet to come. There is a plastic bracket that uses the final drive gear for support and holds a gear that drives this final gear. This bracket was broken permitting the 2nd gear to shift off the teeth of its driving gear and thus caused the horrible noise that abruptly ending my viewing session. Please see the attached pictures for details. Note that at no time during this session did I hit the hard stops, however have encountered them in the past. My questions: 1) Has anyone else reported this broken bracket? 2) Is it likely that a casual encounter with the hard stop can cause this type of damage? I have always been careful to immediately power off the scope when this happens, reset the home position, and realign the scope. 3) I noticed some other postings about the loose screws.....is this a common problem with the ETX-125? 4) It seems like it would be moderately easy to replace the gear assembly? Do you think Meade would sell this part or would you recommend sending it in to the factory for repair? I was really hoping to have the scope for the Star Party. My fear is that if I send it in it will not be back in time for that prestigious event. Thanks in advance for your advice, Glenn SmithMike here: I believe there have been scattered reports over the years of similar problems. Motor vibrations can cause screws to work loose and hitting the hard stop and continuing to run the drive may cause failure over time if it happens repeatedly. Meade will not sell replacement parts but Telescope Warehouse may (or may not) have what you need; see the Astronomy Links page.
Subject: Original ETX 125 EC/AT or the new ETX 125 PE (both with UHTC) Sent: Sunday, July 3, 2005 03:58:00 From: Tom Ko (email@example.com) I am thinking of purchasing ETX 125 but not sure which one to go for, the original ETX 125 EC/AT, or the new ETX 125 Premier Edition. I am assuming the OTA is much the same between them. The main differences are the LNT and the SmartFinder. I am not sure about the SmartFinder as some of other readers pointed out about the design and build quality, plus it is only 1x. However, I am keen on this LNT. Does this piece of device actually make one's life simpler when leveling and aligning north. You can get a good quality ETX 125 EC/AT from ebay for a very good price. But they do not offer the LNT and would need me to perform the leveling and north alignment manually. Are they difficult to do manually? Thanks for providing such informative site and thanks in advance for your advise. Tom from Dorset, UKMike here: People have been leveling and aligning by hand with the ETX line for years. No, it is not difficult. Yes, the LNT helps when you can't find North (which isn't difficult either, especially if you can see Polaris from your location). Some people prefer a finderscope that magnifies but others have difficulty using a finderscope since it DOES magnify the image AND it is the image is usually reversed in some manner.
Subject: ETX 125 - problem with drive Sent: Saturday, July 2, 2005 17:24:04 From: Nicolai Wiegand (firstname.lastname@example.org) My name is Nicolai Wiegand from germany. I hope, my english is good enough to understand. I am a new user. I bought a Meade Telescope ETX 125 in february 2005 at a Meade dealer. First of all, after I have used the scope just a few times the autostar didnt work: When I started the initialization, the procedure stopped during initialization and nothing happened. I sent the autostar back to Meade and got a new one (warranty). Then everything was okay until I showed the scope to a friend. I just started the initialization (everything good) and moved the scope to the left and the right side to show him how it works as some smoke came out of my scope! Again, after that happening nothing worked. I sent the scope back to Meade and got it back last week. Now, I have another problem: The scope returned to me repaired (!). Meade didnt gave any explanation of the work they have done and the initialization worked without problems. But then, the scope started to move: to the left, to the right, up and downwards inbetween short breaks. I could not recognize what can be the reason. When I do the easy, one or two star alignment the scope starts going to the right side and upwards until the mechanical stop in both drives. I've never got the message in the Autostar display "motor faults". I never heard crackings sounds. I did a full reset several times, then a motor calibration. No movement during the motor calibration. When I get the scope "on" it starts to move. I happens with using the power adapter (original meade) and with new batteriy power. When I press the moving-buttons nothing happens the scope dont move! Do you know help??? Thanks a lot! Dr. Nicolai Wiegand -- Dr. Nicolai Wiegand Germany email@example.com http://www.sexy-etx125.de.vuMike here: The tube should move a few degrees on both axes when doing a CALIBRATE MOTORS. And obviously the scope should move when using the slew arrows. Does it not move even when using the fastest (9 key) slewing speed? Given the smoke problem and the new problem, I really am wondering about the power source and if it is proper for your location.
Subject: Backlash on ETX 105 Sent: Saturday, July 2, 2005 15:40:50 From: BtwdFritz@aol.com (BtwdFritz@aol.com) When I first got my ETX 105 a couple years ago, I didn't experience any of the backlash issues I kept hearing about from others. I figured I was just lucky and got a scope that didn't have this problem. Well, now it kind of does, and at moderately high magnifications the target image almost leaps out of the field of view. This is very annoying. Why can't the thing just stop when it gets where it's supposed to? Why must it go back a bit? How come it doesn't happen on the veritcal axis? Is this a problem with all Go-To drives? And finally, of course, is there anything I can do to fix it? Should I mess with the motor calibration? If so, how? Otherwise, very happy with the scope, and especially enjoy the reactions of passers-by who take a peak through it. I've actually seen people eyes get a little teary on seeing Saturn or the Orion nebula for the first time. Help much appreciated, Fritz P.S. Oh! With clear skies, should I be able to witness any brightening of the Deep Impact comet on the Fourth with my ETX 105?Mike here: Whenever you change the power source, including changing batteries, or even when the batteries are getting low, you need to do a CALIBRATE MOTORS. In this case, you may also want to TRAIN DRIVES. Those should cure the problem you are experiencing. As to Deep Impact, from a really dark site, you could possibly have seen it.
Subject: ETX-125 RA Motor Issue, Power Question, Filter Question Sent: Saturday, July 2, 2005 07:25:36 From: Larry Houle (firstname.lastname@example.org) I have a ETX-125 which is only six months old and am new to astronomy. Last evening, I was out observing and started to experience a tracking problem. It seems in certain positions that the RA motor would audibly "click" and the scope, thus the image, would jump vs. tracking smoothly. I am concerned that this is a sign of trouble with the motor or the gears and was wondering if there is an adjustment or correction I could make. My power question has to do with the right type of power supply to buy. I would like to use a Power Tank vs. rechargeable AA batteries and have seen 2 variants; a 12V 7AH and a 12V 17AH. Not sure which is most appropriate for the 125. As a side note, I have used the Meade #541 AC Adapter and #607 Power Cord, but each time I do I have trouble with the scope in easy alignment mode. It will select a star, then begin to slew. However, the scope will point straight up until it cannot go any farther. I must turn the scope off and try again, with no different result. I have tried, reset, calibrate and train to no avail. It seems using the #541 is the only factor that causes this. I'd appreciate your thoughts on the Power Tank. Finally, I live outside of Chicago where there is quite a bit of light pollution. I have seen several filters that claim to reduce light pollution, i.e. the Orion SkyGlow and Meade Broadband filters. I was wondering if you have found these to be effective of if there is another type of filter that I should investigate. Thanks in advance for your assistance and thanks for the time and energy you put into your web site. It has certainly made my experience with the ETX much more enjoyable thus far. Best Regards, LarryMike here: The 7AH version is fine. I have simultaneously run both my ETX-125 and LXD55-8"SC for hours using it. You can see my "Celestron Power Tank" comments on the Accessory Reviews: Miscellanous page. As to the oddities you are experiencing, any time you change the power source you need to CALIBRATE MOTORS again. That "tunes" the system to the amount of power being supplied. See if that cures them. As to light pollution filters, see the Accessory Reviews: Filters page.
Thanks for your feedback on the Power tank and the filters (found the reviews on your site) and I will definitely calibrate when switching power sources. The other issue I am having is a tracking problem. It seems in certain positions that the RA motor (I believe it was the RA) would audibly "click" and the scope, thus the image, would jump vs. tracking smoothly. I am concerned that this is a sign of trouble with the motor or the gears jumping off the drive and was wondering if there is an adjustment or correction I could make or if I should send it back to Meade as it is only 6 months old. Thanks and Regards, LarryMike here: Jumping in tracking can be a sign that you need to TRAIN DRIVES, dirty encoders, stiff lubrication, or a broken gear tooth. Dirty encoders and stiff lubrication can sometimes be cured by slowly moving the telescope by hand in both axes, in both directions, hardstop to hardstop, several times back and forth. If the gear is broken, that is a repair best left to Meade.
At this point, it sounds like my best bet is to move the scope from hardstop to hardtop as suggested then to reset, calibrate and train drives. Starting fresh will give me a baseline to see if I have any more gear problems. If so, I'll contact Meade. Thanks again.
Subject: Meade ETX Collimation? Sent: Friday, July 1, 2005 08:43:28 From: WarpedCorp (email@example.com) I'm looking at purchasing a DSX90 (ETX90 on one arm mount) for use as a grab and go vacation scope and guide scope. Is it possible to collimate these scopes should they not be right on from the box? Procedure? Thanks! Warp Have a great 4th and remember the troops!Mike here: Yes, it IS possible but not normally needed nor it is easy to do. It is time-consuming and as you can image, you can make things worse rather than better. But there are articles on collimation on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page on my ETX Site.
Thanks Mike.... have a great holiday! Warp
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