Last updated: 29 February 2008
This page is for user comments and information of a general nature or items applicable to all LXD55 and LXD75 models. If you have any comments, suggestions, questions or answers to questions posed here, e-mail them to me and I'll post them. Please use an appropriate Subject Line on your message. Thanks.
Subject: LXD 75 Autostar Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 20:35:17 From: Dan Dolaptchieff (email@example.com) ive been troubleshooting this with Dick for a few week.And I think we have narrowed it down to either the 497 hbx or the ra board. Do you have any good used or new arround or know where I an find one? Thanks again for all your help. Its great that Dick is so helpfull. DanMike here: You can always try eBay for a used AutoStar. Just be certain it is a #497. As to a board for the LXD75 mount, good luck finding that. I doubt that you will find that part. You would likely have to return the GEM head to Meade for a replacement/repair.
Subject: LXD 75 Pier plate Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 20:43:27 From: Stephen Olson (firstname.lastname@example.org) Long time! Just finished my observatory. And as usual I did things backwards. I never installed a pier for it. Now I want one! Of course. Anyway. I think I have spent more than enough on this hobby and was wondering if you have any suggestions for a pier plate that would be cheap or free. Any suggestions? I have the LXD75 sn8 and an AT66 on top of that. I can get the pier in, I just don't know how to mount. Thanks for all your wisdom. Steve www.theurbansky.comMike here: Check the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page on my ETX Site. There are many pier tips there. While they may be about using an ETX with a pier you still might get some ideas.
Thanks mike, I have a newautostar 497 on its way,. I have a query out there for a new board. Are the ra and dec boards interchangeable? Are the 55 and 75 boards the same also.. I heard the average time to have meade service is 3 moths. I cant wait that long. danMike here: Service time can vary depending on the load and parts required. Could be 3 weeks, or longer. I've heard conflicting reports about the interchangeability.
Subject: LXD 75 Autostar Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 20:48:17 From: Dan Dolaptchieff (email@example.com) Heres the latest, Ive been in contact with dick and were getting closer but not there yet. anu Ideas? Thanks Dan ----- I pulled of the encoder wheels an gave them a lite flat black mist coat as reccomended in the hyper tune. One of the encoders was a little wobbly but I straightened it out. probably a max wobble of only .030 now. The encoders are on there solid. you can turn the motor by hand with them. I dont know what good it would do to do a 360Deg and measure the specs as the there is no change at all when the mount is moved the alt/az and the dec/ra remain the same. you said the autostar would complain if there was no change? It doesnt. The only time it does is when its slewing below the horizon it says motor failure,overload etc. Its slewing alot less with the -900 track adjust ,but still out of control.When it slews(creeps) it acts like its fighting the Hbx and moves in jerks not smooth. What does the no change in the ra/dec mean. Is the autostar not getting the info or does it just jumble it up?Im looking for a nother 75 for parts to swap them out. Any Ideas? will the 55 and 75 encoders swap? What is the RA % used for? I changed it but no dice. By the way I have changed the as/ra ratio to+2.55999 and the alt/ dec ratio to -2.55999 as required when installing warp drives as the instal requires when replacing gears with pulleys. yes i did calibrate motors and train also. If its a encoder problem wouldnt I see some movement in status dislpay? thanks again dick I am sure we can figure it out together.Mike here: You mention "moves in jerks not smooth". Have you checked for obstructions, lubrication, metal burrs, loose gears on their shafts?
Hi mike, when i slew its smooth. When it fites the hbx its jerky. There is no change in the status display when slewed and the mount think I'm below the horizon.The alt az # remain the same.Mike here: Definitely odd.
Subject: RA shaft Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 10:19:30 From: Roy Goderstad (firstname.lastname@example.org) Can you tell me how to remove the ring nut on a LXD75 RA shaft. It seems to be quite different than the LXD55. I cannot find any set screws in the LXD75 ring nut, as the instructions on the LXD55 say there are three. I am trying to get at the worm gear. I have already pulled the polar scope out. I have torn up the polar scope adjuster ring getting it out, as it had threadlock holding it in. But the next steps have me confused. I was going to buy the DVD, but it says it was created on the LXD55 mount, which won't help me in this area.Mike here: I can't help directly and can't check my LXD75 mount since it was stolen, along with most of my gear in December, but check the article "LXD55/75 Gear Box Maintenance" on my LXD55/75 web site (http://www.weasner.com/lxd).
Subject: Re: creep after beep suggestion Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 15:42:34 From: Norm & Martha Fredrick (email@example.com) I forgot to add how sorry I am that someone stole your gear but glad your insurance will cover most of it and what a great site you have and what a service it is to the community Thanks Norm
Subject: Some General Notes Over Articles On Your Site(s) Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 21:52:24 From: Mark Jordan (firstname.lastname@example.org) It had been a while since my last visit to your site(s), just read where your LXD75 SC8 and related equipment was stolen. That's a damn shame, I hope your home owners at least covered the loss after a deductible or what ever! I have actually come across a couple of LXD75 SC8 rigs for sale in the new year on AM & Ebay, but impossible to tell much about the fine details such as........ did they have an original purchase receipt! If some one did end up buying it from an on line site or pawn shop, it probably was not in the same condition as when it was snatched, as I'm sure it didn't get very careful handling. I noticed someone had possed the age old question of 8" SN or 10" SN, which is better? Well here's the short version of the whys & wherefores of which one is "best". Based on my own and the experiences of several other SN users, it's not all about the aperature, but rather the use vs stability. The 10" SN is an outstanding set of optics for both visual and photographic work on it's own, but....... it is really at the top of the LXD75 mount's capabilities all by it's self. For purely visual observations it still does good on the LXD as the human eye will autonomically make the fine calcualtions anf adjustments for little instabilities. With just the SN10 and the necessary eyepieces the weight factor is within the mount's ability to maintain a stability very suitable for that visual observation, maybe some light unguided web cam planetary work will goo fairly well due to the light weight web cam I no extra equipment needed for guiding. However.... when you begin to enter the rhelm of guided long exposure astrophotography the weight of the addons, plus the camera to accomplish a smooth long exposure guided throw the total package weight well inexcess of the mount's capabilities. This results in a tempomental imaging platform, that will have real stability problems. Some folks have used the SN10 in a more permanent observatory setting, with some user modifications to the tripod or flat put it on an anchored pier, and had better stability performance than the SN10 would normally have under the same load no mods. The better solution if a person plans to get into astrophotography with their LXD75 rig is to go for the lighter weight SN8 or even SN6. This allows for them to have some room for their AP equipment to grow before beginning to overload the mount and lose stability necessary to have for good sharp images albeit with some slightly longer exposure times than would be needed with the 10" aperature of the SN10. Put that SN10 on a mount in the 40 - 50 lbs weight capacity performance range and it would be a truely impressive deep space plateform, but the 30lb capacity of the LXD75 just simply has no room to develop the setup around the SN10 for great long exposure AP. This is what really kind of stuns me when it comes to Meade's new product development, a decent GEM in the 40 - 50 lbs capacity with an Autostar interface would fill a nitch longing for a good platform. Meade just doesn't seem to want to take full advantage of the booming astrophotography market they played a major roll in giving a huge boost to in recent years. But I ramble, I have written then a couple of times with new product suggestions from the complaints, wishes and desires of those I have conversed with on the topic of AP for the average cash poor individual. They seen to have fallen upon deaf ears and wound up in file 13, or Orion intercepted them and put them to product as they have come out in recent months with success with a few of the ideals I sent to Meade! But alas what the heck do I know of such things! CS! Mark Jordan http://thestardeckobservatory.com
Subject: LXD55 mount Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 04:50:01 From: Colin Martin (email@example.com) Last night I was moving the scope manually with the motors when trying to point the scope low down on the horizon the dec motor casing hit the site of the mount and obviously stopped. As soon as I realised what I had done I reversed the motor and all seemed fine. However when I redid the autostar setup thing didn't seem quite right. But as it was getting quite cold I packed up for the evening. Now doing a dummy run this morning during daylight I did the easy alignment and when successful I told it to go back to Polaris. It didn't, the dec was okay but the ra is out by about a quarter turn of the mount axis. Could the collision of the dec box effect the mount alignment some way? I assume that I should be able to get back to the exact north setting (Polaris) after doing the easy alignment just by accepting the auto star prompts during daylight hours. Your help would be appreciated. Regards Colin Martin (uk)Mike here: There are a few possibilities. A gear could have worked loose (check inside the inspection ports). A gear could have been broken off (same check). If no physical damage, redo the CALIBRATE MOTOR and TRAIN DRIVES. If that doesn't cure it do a RESET, CALIBRATE MOTOR, and TRAIN DRIVES.
Thanks Mike, a reset,calibration,train drives did the trick Regards Colin
if I want to put a second ota on the mount would I have to retrain etc every time I swapped to another otaMike here: Assuming you keep everything in reasonably similar balance you should be OK without needing to do that.
Subject: creep after beep suggestion Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 04:25:38 From: Norm & Martha Fredrick (firstname.lastname@example.org) Seeing as how this showed up after the hypertune I'd take a close look at everything that was done in the hypertuning process starting with the encoders...I've read that they seem to work better when they AREN"T centered Norm
Subject: LXD75-8"SC Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 21:27:08 From: Anthony Belkowski (email@example.com) Sorry to hear about your theft. Hope it all works out. Tony Belkowski
Subject: LXD75 8" w/ UHTC or LXD 10" without??? Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 14:01:56 From: Neil Surti (firstname.lastname@example.org) Hello. Tremendous site that you have created here. Your site was definitely helped me to commit and delve into the wonderful world of stargazing I have been researching telescopes for a few months now and feel that I am ready to purchase my first scope. Like many, I consider myself to be an amateur enthusiast with the desire to get into some astrophotography. I've decided on 2 and trying to weigh the pros and cons for both. The choice is between LXD75 SN-10 without the UHTC coatings and LXD 75 SN-8 with the UHTC coatings. From a local dealer and I can get either for a similar price. My main questions and concerns are these: 1) How much of a difference is there between an 8" and 10" aperture when imaging an object and for taking pictures? I would like to get into photography at some point, but if I can image and photograph Jupiter with Red Spot I'll be thrilled and any true DSI would be a tremendous icing on the cake. 2) How much does the UHTC coatings make a difference with imaging? Is it better to go for 8" aperature with coating or 10" aperature without coating? 3) After reading several boards I do have some concerns about the weight of the 10" and how sturdy the mount is, as well as, how well the Goto motor tracks for that size scope? Several posts I've read say one or the other: that the LXD75 mount is not sturdy enough; while other posts state that with enough patience the mount and Goto motor works just fine. Also, I'll be setting this scope up by myself, either in a field about 1 minute walk from my house or in a large field about 5 minute drive. I'm not looking for a get-up-and-go scope but I don't want to have to call up Atlas Movers every time I want to do some stargazing. Is the 10" reasonable for one person to be able to set up?Mike here: UHTC adds around 20% more light getting through the telescope. So, for the 8", the effect is almost the same as having a 10" without UHTC. However, there may be other advantages to the 10" over the 8", such as resolution and focal length. And the 10" will have more have more "light gathering" area than the 8". Ah, decisions, decisions, decisions! As to the size of the 10", it should be fine on the LXD75 mount (it was a little to much for the formerly available LXD55 mount). However, a friend of mine who had the 10"SN did find it somewhat cumbersome to attach to the mount due to its size.
Thanks for the response. Very helpful information while i am contemplating my choice. The telescope will be for me and my wife. My wife is just shy of 5 feet tall and im about 6 months out from should surgery (recovering well but still not at full strength just yet), so the weight of the scope is definitely part of my choice. I've found the weight of the 8" is about 50lbs, so with that and what you have written i am starting to lean towards the 8". Thanks again for the great response.Mike here: Enjoy! Remember that the best telescope for you is the one that gets used. If it is too cumbersome or difficult to move and set up it tends to remain unused (and unloved).
Subject: Lxd75 Creep after beep and no update Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2008 10:56:53 From: Dan Dolaptchieff (email@example.com) Sorry to bother you again, I will happily contribute to your site if you can help me. Still having the same probs. this is my update. I have been still having problems of creeping. I was working on it last night. and found when i go into setup telescope/mount when I pick polar(which this mount is) it will immediately start to do a fairly fast creep on DEC to the west.If I pick alt/az it wont creep.But I cannot get it to pick a star above the horizon. I still cannot connect the Autostar to the PC. I am using a keyspan and a meade serial to 4 pin adapter. I have ckd the comm ports and still no luck. I sure would like to get this going before the new moon gets here.Also tried the stargps with no luck either. The diagnotic tells me the keyspan is ok. The laptop is not connected to a fax so I dont think its fitting that. Sorry if I sound dumb.I am a boat mechanic and my 16 year old son is helping mew/ the comp stuff(hes pretty good) It was working fine and had only been used twice last year before being torn down to do the hyper tune and warpdrive.I also lightly coated the encoder wheels w/ flat black and centered them.I reset the ratios as required also. I think the biggest problem to fix is the creep. If we can fix that. then the connect to the autoatar should not be much. I have done several resets. I dont think I need to do a safeload as the hbx seems to be ok?I really appreciate your help. Should I remove the warp drive and put the gears back in? thanks DanMike here: Go back a step. When you set up the telescope, are you doing an Easy Align, One Star, Two Star, or Three Star? With the LXD I normally (or did until the telescope was stolen) a One Star alignment to get the polar axis aligned. Then I do another alignment, usually a Two Star. That always seemed to work well for me (and others). If you telescope is immediately creeping westward AND you are still trying to do the alignment, I do have to wonder. OR are you just turning on Astronomical Tracking after powering on the telescope? One other thought. Have you aligned the optical axis to the RA axis using either the mechnical adjustments or the "LXD Adjust" function? (Both are described in the LXD55/75 manual.) As to the serial connection problem, it still sounds like there might be a conflict. BUT you should check that you have the Keyspan software properly installed and that you have set the AutoStar Update application to use the port that the Keyspan is set to emulate.
Thanks for the reply Mike, I have tried both a 1 star and 2 star align. they both want to creep west right after it sets on the first star. Its about 5 deg per min creep west. I assume that the menu should be on telescope / polar correct? When I enter that it starts a immediate fast creep to west. If I enter alt az no creep untill I align on a star. I am doing this indoors to get the scope to work before I set my WO 80 on it and it gets crunched! I have set it up on polaris outside my window.. Does this sound like a software problem. that its telling scope to turn in the dec constantly? The autostar has only 2 hours on it.It worked fine before the mount was torn down. Should I try another controller?. can you send this to Dr Clay and get his input? I have done the RA and dec Tune to the axis.If I could get the hbx to connect to the Autostar on my laptop would the creep after beep patch fix this or is this beyond that? I am a pretty good mechanic and trained in electronics. My computer skills are fair. I should be able to fix something like this!!!! Thaks so much for your help Mike. If I had the $ i would give this to you and go buy a Atlas EQ. Hope my house sells soon and thats what I will do. Dan
I downloaded the patch for the patch fix for the lx75 creep after beep fix and but when i drag and drop the txt file onto the patcher it flashes a command prompt window and then closes before i can see if anything happens. Also im wondering what to do after i have created the patch like im supposed to. Any help is appreciated. : ) Any way mail me back when you get a chance. Im also avalible at firstname.lastname@example.org Thank you for your time.
One down one, to go. I got the Autostar to accept the pc. It was a wiring issue. I did a calibrate and train. and checked setup,all correct. It still thinks its down under. It wants to go to Sirius upside down and then says motor overload when its upside down I give it Mizar which is up and it says below horizon. I think we are getting there. Just a few more to go.thanks again. DanMike here: Have you checked your location in the AutoStar? I suggest using a nearby City name first. If that still causes the "down under" error, try a different City. As to the immediate drift during the first alignment star, that is strange. It almost sounds like the gear ratios (or what the AutoStar "thinks" is the gear ratios, are off. Try an experiment. Do as good a polar alignment as you can WITHOUT using the AutoStar. Then select "Astronomical" from the Targets menu. That should immediately start the telescope tracking. Manually slew over to some object, say "M42". Does it track accurately?
From: richard seymour (email@example.com) Dan Dolaptchieff wrote: > I downloaded the patch for the patch fix for the lx75 creep after beep > fix and but when i drag and drop the txt file onto the patcher it > flashes a command prompt window and then closes before i can see if > anything happens. Also im wondering what to do after i have created the > patch like im supposed to. Any help is appreciated. : ) I'm not sure/aware if "the patcher" (do you mean StarMod or StarPatch?) is a drag-and-drop application. I always use the program's Files menu (or the drop-down dialog box in StarPatch) to tell it what i want to do. If you're using the patch kit zip file i create (and post on Mike's site) it is -not- a drag-and-drop.. once you've unzipped it into the Ephemerides folder -and- have the proper original ROM file in there, you double click on the kit's "ClickMe" file to create the patched ROM file. *or* download StarPatch from http://www.stargps.ca/starpatch.htm and it will do -everything- (no drag and drop needed) including fetching the proper files from Meade and the StarGps site. Just like it says (near the bottom) of the patch kit's ReadMe file. have fun --dick
Thanks Mike, Hope you got some good viewing in at Oracle.I will try that.Is there a place in your site that explains all the menu features and how to use them.I didnt know you you could do what you just recommended. I did set the ratios as recc in warp drive to +2.559 and-2.559. I had picked the closest city Hilo Hi. Would it be a good idea to get the gps for it? As for polar alignment isnt that just done thru the polar scope? Thanks again for the help. Also Dick's as well Aloha DanMike here: Don't think there is a specific article about that. Sorry. As to getting the Lat/Long, you don't necessarily need a GPS. There are many web sites that can provide that info; see the Astronomy Links page on my ETX Site. The reason I suggested a different City Name is that sometimes errors have cropped into the AutoStar database.
T know my lat/long. thanks.
Subject: Re: one of the tech articles on your page Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2008 08:17:39 From: Ken Neusaenger (firstname.lastname@example.org) Thanks for the feedback. I'm assuming, then, what he is saying, is to visually get polaris in the polar scope (obviously aligned to the gem previously), eyeball the alignment of the weight bar to kochab (normal up/down/left/right -- not looking through the finder) and then peer into the finder and align polaris on the small circle. Since it is a refractor, it will, in fact, move in the opposite direction and be correct since the image is inverted. I'll be trying it this evening. My problem was that I was thinking in terms of moving the scope "correctly" as in countering for the inverted image through the polar finder. Thanks again, Ken
Subject: one of the tech articles on your page Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2008 07:30:37 From: Ken Neusaenger (email@example.com) There is a tech article on your page entitled "Polar Alignment Accurate and Easy". I'm confused by this article as it seems to be opposite of what it should be. The celestial north pole is always between polaris and kochab is it not? This article states to point the weight bar toward kochab (in line with Polaris) and then use the knobs on the mount to move polaris into the small circle in the finder scope. If we do this, it puts the crosshair in the finder on a target that is outside of Polaris/Kochab which seems wrong to me. The crosshair in the polar finder is ideally supposed to be placed exactly on the CNP, isn't it? Forgive my confusion, but I am at a loss here as I can't see it any other way. He doesn't really state clearly in the text about which way the weight bar should be pointed but in the picture it is clearly intended that the weight bar be pointed at kochab where I would think it needs to be just the opposite. What am I missing here?Mike here: I have forwarded your inquiry to the article's author and here is his response:
From: Mark Jordan (firstname.lastname@example.org) I've been through this several times before and it always turns out the person asking these questions has not yet tried to put it to practice, or tried to make unnecessary corrections to incorrect conclusions of problems and did it wrong. When done right it works and works well, the better the PAS is collimated to the R.A center axis the better the resulting alignment. Usually good enough for short exposure photography on a well tuned and PEC corrected/trained mount. 1.) The point of aligning Polaris and Kochab up on the alignment bar is to establish a straight line between Polaris & Kochab. The NCP will be between Polaris & Kochab, but this issue is not addressed in any details in the article, as it really has little relevance to the steps as outlined. The whole point as mentioned for aligning Polaris and Kochab is to establish the correct "clock position" for the polar scope to be set in to use it to closely polar align the mount. Once the correct clock position is established then the position of the NCP comes to importance in it's relation to Polaris only........... Kochab has done it's job by being the second point along the straight line used to put your PAS reticule in the proper clock position. This is why the Polar Scope reticule is lined up to the CW bar as described in the article...... so everything is aligned to the straight line established by using the CW bar as your straight edge. Another highly important step to this method working well is to be sure the PAS is well collimated (aligned to the center R.A. axis ) for accuracy. 2.) Remember, and this is a simple thing often overlooked when folks start to try to analyze the method.......... The PAS is a simple refractor.. the view through it is reversed. 3.) People should really try using the method first, try it first if they didn't get it right then we'll figure out what they did wrong. It works and works well when it is done right, I have received numerous messages from folks who have used it with great success as well as my own experiences with it, as it is listed on my website as well. Maybe I'm not the best writer of articles and have not conveyed all of the small details. I find in my experiences from 15 years of instructing in-services and simple procedures going into to much fine detail often looses the simple message and causes folks to skip through, missing the more important information or message. CS! Mike, Mark Jordan
Subject: lxd55 mount Sent: Monday, February 4, 2008 11:49:36 From: marcel (email@example.com) excellent website, thank you for all your help and advice on the site, i have a question though i have stripped my lxd55 mount to hypertune and i noticed inside they are all fitted with brass bush's do you know if it is possible to replace these with bearings like the lxd75 mount has. many thanks m kingMike here: Although I don't know for certain I would suspect you could replace them IF you can find an exact duplicate in dimensions and function.
many thanks for your help. m king
Subject: LXD75-SN-8 First Light Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 16:56:30 From: Jerry Hailey (firstname.lastname@example.org) I got "First Light"! Well I got "First Cloud" on night one. That gave me a chance to calibrate motors, and train drive. First Light of Meade LXD75 with Schmidt-Newtonian 8 inch. I did not take the time on the first night out to get polar north exactly perfect. I wanted to just look at what I could and enjoy the scope. I set it up roughly to polar north by getting Polaris centered in the finder scope. It was also centered in the 26mm eyepiece, after all, last night I had plenty of time to align the finder scope and train the drives on a far away radio antenna. I did a two star easy align, both stars were in the finder scope and just on the edge of the 26mm eyepiece. My first target was Mars. It came up dead center of the eyepiece. I played around with my 9.5mm Orion ED-2 (85X) eyepiece and a 3x Barlow (255X). I couldn't get the Orion eyepiece to focus with or with out the Barlow. The Meade 4000 26mm (31X) was very clear and also clear with the 3x Barlow (93x). My wife and Kids were ready to eat, so I left the scope tracking Mars. One hour later Mars was still in the eyepiece at 31X. It wasn't centered, but not too bad for a quick setup. I then slewed to Rigel, once again, right in the center of the eyepiece. My next task was to find Comet Holmes. I went to Algol. I needed to center slightly, then I held down the enter key, and did a sync to Algol. I then went to where the Comet should be. I think I may have seen it, but I'm not sure. This made me want to sit and study the stars around the area and compare to what is on the Autostar software. I have concluded that I need to get my camera setup so I can take photos of what I see, and then look at star charts or the Autostar software. This is about the time that I realized that the 25 degree weather was going to win for the night. Time to go sit by the fire. My impression of the LXD75-SN-8 is that this is a very nice scope and mount. The motors are silent at 1x speed. The ETX-80-BB that I had made a high pitch noise at 1x speed. The goto much more acurate that the ETX-80BB. This is the scope for me. Maybe it's not fair for me to compair the ETX80-BB to the LXD75, after all, you get what you pay for. The LXD was a couple of bucks more. Okay, maybe more than a couple. Jerry
Subject: LXD75 aluminum spur gears?? Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 11:24:04 From: James Sarte (email@example.com) I recently acquired a new LXD75. I've noticed that both Dec and RA spur gears are entirely aluminum now instead of a brass/aluminum combination. What are your thoughts on this? Could this reduce the mounts potential to carry heavier payloads? Best regards, ----------------------------------------------------------------- James SarteMike here: Well, certainly aluminum is soft but I suspect that it should be OK with the included OTAs. Whether that means there could be longterm problems remains to be seen. I guess I will get some experience with this when my replacement LXD75-8"SC arrives.
Thanks for the quick reply. Something tells me I should have cannibalized the RA and DEC spurs from my old LXD55 before I sold it for parts. I was quite surprised to see aluminum used for both gear trains. I guess I will keep a close eye on it. Surprisingly enough however, the new LXD75 seems to be well adjusted out of the box. No apparent binding in the RA and DEC axis', and gear mesh wasn't bad for the spurs. I did have to adjust the RA mesh a little though. OTA used is a 4", 1000mm FL refractor. Weight is around 10 lbs.Mike here: When I swapped out my LXD55 mount for the LXD75 back in May 2006 I never had issues with it. It worked fine out of the box. Since that mount was one of the items stolen last month, I will have to wait for the replacement to see how well it works.
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